WiFi on your boat made simple!
-Aigean
If you have the older Aigean Link series or Wave wi-fi and are having problems, or, if you would like to learn more about the new Aigean wireless clients, contact Richard at (754) 223-2240.
-STARLINK for your boat
Marine Covers and Enclosures
-In Canvas
the best Canvas Product Engineer!Recommended Books for reading
The Curve of Time by M. Wylie Blanchet
Following the Curve of Time (The Legendary M. Wylie Blanchet) by Cathy Converse
Fishing With John by Edith Iglauer
Full Moon Flood Tide (Bill Proctor's Raincoast) by Bill Proctor and Yvonne Maximchuk
Tide Rips & Back Eddies (Bill Proctor's Tales of Blackfish Sound) by Bill Proctor and Yvonne Maximchuk
Marinas to stop and visit
- Refuge Cove
- Toba Wilderness
- Stuart Island Community Dock
- Shoal Bay Government Wharf
- Lagoon Cove Marina
- New Vancouver Marina
- Sullivan Bay Marina
Informational websites
Pat's Boating in Canada
National Data Buoy Center
BC Marine Weather
Rockfish Conservation Areas
U. S. Customs and Border Protection
Favorite Links
BillPratt.com
Sierra College
Master Gardener Yolo County
Woodland High School
Woodland Chamber Singers
EcoFriendly
John & Rebecca Pratt
Summer 2023
Updated intermittently, depending on Wi-Fi access.....
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And then there was the little fellow who bounced out of the woods, like he was owner of everything. Very alert. Very happy. Very energetic. Caught him briefly, before his mother commanded that he get back to her. What an amazing gift to watch.
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Always listening, you might hear an eagle calling. On a nearby island, the eagle was perched in watchfulness, near its nest. Could not hear nor see if there were any eaglets on board, but did find the nest.
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4-23-2023... Off to parts unknown...
with no set plan except heading up the road, northward. Passing Shasta Lake, it was wonderful seeing the lake is full up and topped off. Wonder what it will look
like on our return in the fall. Nevermind, was enjoying the view so much did not get a picture. Oh well, next view was Mount Shasta, shining in glorious beauty in the sun.
Then we stopped off in Grants Pass for time with friends and catch up chatter. Dennis has a lovely place in the country and finding hidden spots of beauty is always a good
day, and catching the sunset.
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Next stop, Edmonds...
On the boat and getting ready to do a multitude of things that prepare our boat for an extended trip. That includes putting away
(i.e. finding room) for everything we brought that we figured is necessary! Going from home to limited room is always a challenge.
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On to the 'TO DO' list...
(which we obviously avoided in the interest of visiting),
1.) Dinghy motor needs the heat thermostat replaced and a minor leak fixed (just to get through the summer before taking to King Salmon for an overhaul and repair job).
2.) Diesel engines checked over, zincs replaced on both, oil, water and other fluids checked and topped off. Starboard engine had a minor leak which was easy to fix.
3.) Lube all zerks.
4.) Genset needs an oil change and check of all fluid levels. Plus other minor checks.
5.) Batteries - there are a lot of them and their water levels all need to be checked. A one inch diameter round mirror with a telescoping handle definitely helps.
6.) Supplies and food item amounts are being recalculated because we are going to be on the boat for a longer period than we have ever had the chance to experience.
Early morning meat run up to Fred Meyers this morning was fruitful.
As things are moved around to work on the various essentials, of course, finding more places to put things, becomes important as well. We are not taking the e-bike this year. No place to really ride it and it becomes "one more thing" to move around while getting out, or putting away other things. And, it is a much bigger 'thing'. It appears that there are a lot of 'things' on the boat. LOL
1.) Dinghy motor needs the heat thermostat replaced and a minor leak fixed (just to get through the summer before taking to King Salmon for an overhaul and repair job).
2.) Diesel engines checked over, zincs replaced on both, oil, water and other fluids checked and topped off. Starboard engine had a minor leak which was easy to fix.
3.) Lube all zerks.
4.) Genset needs an oil change and check of all fluid levels. Plus other minor checks.
5.) Batteries - there are a lot of them and their water levels all need to be checked. A one inch diameter round mirror with a telescoping handle definitely helps.
6.) Supplies and food item amounts are being recalculated because we are going to be on the boat for a longer period than we have ever had the chance to experience.
Early morning meat run up to Fred Meyers this morning was fruitful.
As things are moved around to work on the various essentials, of course, finding more places to put things, becomes important as well. We are not taking the e-bike this year. No place to really ride it and it becomes "one more thing" to move around while getting out, or putting away other things. And, it is a much bigger 'thing'. It appears that there are a lot of 'things' on the boat. LOL
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Beach wandering time...
getting acclimated to both weather and boat; we must remember to get out our hip boots/waders for conversations with other boaters.
Rich has a boat next to us and humor flows freely when he is around. Very restoring for the soul. Think he will be down to wash his boat soon.
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Great Blue Heron and other beauties on the beach!
Exploring at lowtide includes losts of sandbanks and of course, the great blue heron. Getting close enough for a picture is always
a challenge, but one worth doing on a warm sunny day. Especially in the middle of the week when there are few others about. Walks on the beach at lowtide always turns
up unexpected treasures and views. Below is a trove of great blue heron pictures, Canada goose and her goslings tucked in a culvert between the railroad tracks and the marina,
a sea lion snoozing in an empty boat slip on our dock, plus horse clams and moonsnails exposed at lowtide.
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Sea Lion in the Water
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The Bon Voyage Committee
Definitely does not, barnacles scour;
From the bottom, their stickiness is their power,
But power washing removes them like a shower!
La Conner is our first destination,
Pulling along those many crustaceans.
Knocked down below, asking for an explanation,
They said this is our brand new plantation.
Between the seals on the docks, low lying rocks;
Our adventure starts off with humor and blocks.
Swinnomish Channel, low tide levels shocks,
The bottom stuck critters, gathered in flocks.
----------------------------by Rebecca Pratt
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5-23-2023... Off to La Conner
Whenever you travel you always want to have gentle winds, tide going your direction and slack whenever you get to where you are going to tie up. We left Port of
Edmonds at 5:55 AM and ETA for La Conner was 12:00 PM. We did well, arriving at 11:37 AM.
Outgoing tide is always a little different when traveling north, on the backside of Whidbey Island. Just a few sections where we were going 7.7 mph but the majority of the trip we were averaging 8.3 mph, with our total distance of 47.3 miles. It took us 5 hours and 42 minutes, about the normal time. Nice cloud cover with little to no breeze.
Entering the Swinnomish Channel and traveling northbound, the current was slightly against us even though lowtide was not until 2:34 pm. The further in we traveled, the less the current became until we were really scrutinizing the water to see which way it was actually traveling. By the time we arrived at the fuel dock, it was slack and still 3 hours before lowtide. Of course, summer hasn't begun and the fuel dock is closed on Tuesdays and Thursdays. We gently floated over to the South Dock (F) and easily pulled in and tied off. Around 12:40 we noticed the current was now heading south, even though it is well before the lowtide still. It would appear that the outgoing tide goes North until approximately 3 hours before the low tide. Then, the incoming tide heads south. We will be checking at 7:00 pm to see if it is slack three hours before the high tide which will be at 10:11 PM.
Will try to check tides throughout the day tomorrow, because this is always good information for boaters. We guesstimated today, for slack and came up winners.
As we were leaving the Port of Edmonds this morning, we went past two huge sea lions that were sleeping on the fuel dock (first picture on the left, immediately below). Yesterday, one looked like a blob in the water in an empty boat slip; and after setting our bags of groceries on the dock, we walked down the slip to see what it was and ended up getting the pictures below. This fellow woke up and was very aggravated that we were taking his pictures and barked at us repeatedly; swimming directly towards us before veering off and disappeariong. Sorry fellow.
Outgoing tide is always a little different when traveling north, on the backside of Whidbey Island. Just a few sections where we were going 7.7 mph but the majority of the trip we were averaging 8.3 mph, with our total distance of 47.3 miles. It took us 5 hours and 42 minutes, about the normal time. Nice cloud cover with little to no breeze.
Entering the Swinnomish Channel and traveling northbound, the current was slightly against us even though lowtide was not until 2:34 pm. The further in we traveled, the less the current became until we were really scrutinizing the water to see which way it was actually traveling. By the time we arrived at the fuel dock, it was slack and still 3 hours before lowtide. Of course, summer hasn't begun and the fuel dock is closed on Tuesdays and Thursdays. We gently floated over to the South Dock (F) and easily pulled in and tied off. Around 12:40 we noticed the current was now heading south, even though it is well before the lowtide still. It would appear that the outgoing tide goes North until approximately 3 hours before the low tide. Then, the incoming tide heads south. We will be checking at 7:00 pm to see if it is slack three hours before the high tide which will be at 10:11 PM.
Will try to check tides throughout the day tomorrow, because this is always good information for boaters. We guesstimated today, for slack and came up winners.
As we were leaving the Port of Edmonds this morning, we went past two huge sea lions that were sleeping on the fuel dock (first picture on the left, immediately below). Yesterday, one looked like a blob in the water in an empty boat slip; and after setting our bags of groceries on the dock, we walked down the slip to see what it was and ended up getting the pictures below. This fellow woke up and was very aggravated that we were taking his pictures and barked at us repeatedly; swimming directly towards us before veering off and disappeariong. Sorry fellow.
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Surprising channel flood leaves La Conner planning for the future.
When we pulled into the dock, it was surprisingly empty; even when we went to bed. The next morning we woke up to a huge barge tied alongside us. Hello! John
spoke with one of the workers who shared that they were repairing the dike south of La Conner on the Swinnomish Channel. When we entered the Swinnomish Channel yesterday, we saw where they were working
on the east side of the channel. Apparently, when the weather, a King tide and excess water happened on Dec 27, 2022, a section of the dike broke causing La Conner to be flooded with salt water from
Swinnomish.
Surprising channel flood leaves La Conner planning for future.
Pictures below were taken and the first one provides the challenge question of the day: Is the business open on Wednesday, or not? Look closely to see the puzzle! LOL The next two pictures the view of
the bridge that crosses the Swinnomish Channel over to
the Swinnomish Reservation that is located across from La Conner on Fidalgo Island.
You also never know when you might see a canoe out with paddlers in one of their boats, as shown in pictures below. On the property in the background behind the paddlers is where a huge 4th of July
fireworks display occurs every year. We have had the opportunity to sit on the bridge of our boat with an incredible front seat view. Great experience! Not this year. Tomorrow, off to points northward.
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Discussion on the Dock!!!!
The day before departure and finally on our way,
Kindred freiendship is revealed in so many ways;
On the roof of boats in La Conner bay
Here comes heron with a little sashay.
Kindred freiendship is revealed in so many ways;
On the roof of boats in La Conner bay
Here comes heron with a little sashay.
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5-25-2023 off to Canada... Clam Bay anchorage
Pulled out at 5:38 AM. Great day on the water, light breeze and currents moving our direction part of the time. Outgoing tide slows us down at points but never less
than 7.5 mph. North up the Swinnomish Channel and then around east side of Guemes Island (watching out for infamous crab floats); past east side of Sinclair Island, then crossing
head of Rosario before continuing up around north side of Orcas Island heading northwest. Passed on north side of Waldron Island before crossing the international border into Canada.
Heading west we got ready for going through customs before entering Poets Cove to tie up in Bedwell Harbor. Pulled in and tied up at 11:30 AM. Both of us can get off boat to tie up but then only one of us can take the
paperwork to head up the Customs Office. Binder with documents, passports, etc., John heads up. Lot of boats already tied up at the docks, so looks like it will be a bit of a wait.
One hour later, here comes John and we are good to go.
Meanwhile, it was interesting watching what was happening on the dock. Two border agents greeted a boat that came in after us and helped them tie up and then proceeded to board the boat and search. The owner stood nearby on the dock. 10 minutes later, that boat pulled back out and left. What? After a bit, another boat owner came down with the same two agents and while the owners stood on the dock, their boat was searched. About 10 minutes later, they were cleared (I guess) and untied and took off. This happened to another boat that was right in front of us on the dock. Same two border agents. Meanwhile, a couple more boats pulled out (that had arrived before us) and more boats were coming in to tie up and clear the border customs. We were not searched. Untied and departed! Where to next?
Untied at 12:32 PM and decided on Clam Bay which is located on the east side between Leech Island and Thetis Island. Great anchorage and a lot of boats drop a hook in this area. Wnen we arrived, only 4 boats! Wow! Usually 20 or more. Dropped anchor at 4:00 PM and secured everything for the night. Rest time after a long day on the water. Early start planned for in the morning.
Meanwhile, it was interesting watching what was happening on the dock. Two border agents greeted a boat that came in after us and helped them tie up and then proceeded to board the boat and search. The owner stood nearby on the dock. 10 minutes later, that boat pulled back out and left. What? After a bit, another boat owner came down with the same two agents and while the owners stood on the dock, their boat was searched. About 10 minutes later, they were cleared (I guess) and untied and took off. This happened to another boat that was right in front of us on the dock. Same two border agents. Meanwhile, a couple more boats pulled out (that had arrived before us) and more boats were coming in to tie up and clear the border customs. We were not searched. Untied and departed! Where to next?
Untied at 12:32 PM and decided on Clam Bay which is located on the east side between Leech Island and Thetis Island. Great anchorage and a lot of boats drop a hook in this area. Wnen we arrived, only 4 boats! Wow! Usually 20 or more. Dropped anchor at 4:00 PM and secured everything for the night. Rest time after a long day on the water. Early start planned for in the morning.
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5-26-2023 Dodd Narrows and then Nanaimo
Up at 6:00 AM to leave by 7:00 AM and catch slack water at Dodd Narrows by 9:30 AM. Still an incoming current and so we idled along and were still moving around 8 mph.
Always nice to conserve fuel when possible. Approaching Dodd Narrows there were several northbound boats getting ready to go through. On Channel 16 a SÉCURITÉ call came through that a 40 foot
vessel with a boat-in-tow was entering Dodd Narrows heading northbound. What does that mean? SÉCURITÉ - (pronounced sea-cur-i-tay) is the safety signal. This is used to transmit information about the
safety of navigation. For instance, if a large commercial vessel is coming through a narrow channel, this signal would be used. It is also pretty standard when private boaters are entering narrow channels
and the other end is not completely visible (you cannot tell if a boater is entering the other end). We made our call as well, when we entered. Easy ride through with a 1.9 mph current going our direction.
Quite often, significant turmoil in the water on the other end, but pretty easy today; timing was right. A small tug, heading southbound, proceeded to enter the channel just as we were leaving and it was
"really moving" and push a big wake! Scooted around and continued on to Nanaimo. The south entrance into Nanaimo had a west wind pushing the waves and after heading up the channel northbound we swung to
our port and were catching the waves broadside. Went below to make sure everything was staying where it was supposed to stay. Moved a few things to the floor, like the electric kettle for hot water.
No disasters today. Tied up and going to relax and enjoy Nanaimo for a few days. Plus, keeping an eye on the weather (wind) for early morning crossing of Georgia Straits.
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Exploring Nanaimo, B.C.
Tied up and sunny, but windy. Time to explore...inside and outside the port. Since we are on "boat time" we don't know how long we will be here. Exploring the
library (has very good wifi signal unlike the dock) plus bookstores and other sundry places, we are meandering through the decisions of what to do and where to go. There is music every night on the
walkway above us and it was a guitarist and a fiddler playing away last night. Haven't heard any drums yet. Helping boaters on the dock, as they depart, has been an extra bonus as well; plus, we get to meet
new people from different walks of life. Momentary meetings with delightful people definitely add to the spice of life.
Oh, an interesting detail today. Found out that the low lying layer of white that is laying off of Newcastle Island is not fog, but forest fire smoke. It is thick! Wait? What? Yep, there is a fire on Vancouver Island that is NW of our current location and is most likely the source the thick smoke, called the Newcastle Fire. On mainland there is a huge fire called Donnie Creek that may also be contributing to the smoke levels. Not sure. It is Northeast of our current location. Heard from boaters on the boat "Daisy" that one year while traversing Georgia Strait, they had to use their radar due to the invisibility caused by smoke from a fire on land. Have NOT heard of that before, but looking out on Georgia Strait right now, very low visibility. Will keep you posted, since we will be heading that way soon.
Oh, an interesting detail today. Found out that the low lying layer of white that is laying off of Newcastle Island is not fog, but forest fire smoke. It is thick! Wait? What? Yep, there is a fire on Vancouver Island that is NW of our current location and is most likely the source the thick smoke, called the Newcastle Fire. On mainland there is a huge fire called Donnie Creek that may also be contributing to the smoke levels. Not sure. It is Northeast of our current location. Heard from boaters on the boat "Daisy" that one year while traversing Georgia Strait, they had to use their radar due to the invisibility caused by smoke from a fire on land. Have NOT heard of that before, but looking out on Georgia Strait right now, very low visibility. Will keep you posted, since we will be heading that way soon.
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Van Isle 360 International Yacht Race returns to Nanaimo, BC waters
Sailboats will be piling up here in the port as well as anchoring in Mark Bay, in preparation for the start of two week race beginning on Saturday morning, June 3, 2023.
This race goes north from Nanaimo, with seven checkpoints, before rounding the north end of Vancouver Island. Then on the race southward there are only two checkpoints, prior to entering the Juan de Fuca
Straits. One more checkpoint is located in Victoria, BC before returning to Nanaimo.
More information can be found in the Nanaimo Now News Plus, Van Isle 360 has their own webpage with even more information, including the nine hosting communities at the nine checkpoints during the race, with very good description of each location.
More information can be found in the Nanaimo Now News Plus, Van Isle 360 has their own webpage with even more information, including the nine hosting communities at the nine checkpoints during the race, with very good description of each location.
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Nanaimo, boaters and herons
We are checking the weather and finishing up minor details for being gone for an extended period (i.e. do we have enough chips to last us on board?). There are
so many unique places, and history, it is hard to do them credit. See the ocean & harbour on the Waterfront Walkway lined with shops, restaurants, and parks. This paved 5 km (3 mi)
seaside trail is just a short distance from the dock we were on. If you’re here through May to September at noon, see the daily firing ceremony of the historic cannon, although we never heard it once,
while we on the dock. It is just up above us where it is fired. There is a Fisherman's Wharf and a Troller Fish & Chips Restaurant on the dock that is handy for boaters to get a bite or purchase fresh or
smoked salmon and other sundry seafood. The following link provides details about
Nanaimo in case you ever want to travel here. Very informative.
A couple of boats came in for a night or two, and it is always great meeting new boaters. You never know what key tidbits you might pick up, or share. Ernie and Mary were on a new 32 foot Tug Ranger and came in with family that were taking off for home on a floatplane. No problem, it is a short walk down the waterfront to where the Harbour floatplanes come in and out all day. Shared information on currents with them before they left the next day. Jaynine and Dean were on a 43 foot boat behind us and have two lovely mini goldendoodles. (Ok, I had to ask what that was too!) Maylie and Sunshine were from breeding of golden retriever and mini poodles. Doesn't shed, well behaved, very clean and very intellegent as well as very friendly. Maylie hopped in Rebecca's kayak as she was visiting with Jaynine on her swim platform. She got bored with the conversation and took a nap. Really special dogs. The other highlight before taking off was heron pictures on the dock, as you can see below. Don't miss Rebecca's heron poetry in next section.
A couple of boats came in for a night or two, and it is always great meeting new boaters. You never know what key tidbits you might pick up, or share. Ernie and Mary were on a new 32 foot Tug Ranger and came in with family that were taking off for home on a floatplane. No problem, it is a short walk down the waterfront to where the Harbour floatplanes come in and out all day. Shared information on currents with them before they left the next day. Jaynine and Dean were on a 43 foot boat behind us and have two lovely mini goldendoodles. (Ok, I had to ask what that was too!) Maylie and Sunshine were from breeding of golden retriever and mini poodles. Doesn't shed, well behaved, very clean and very intellegent as well as very friendly. Maylie hopped in Rebecca's kayak as she was visiting with Jaynine on her swim platform. She got bored with the conversation and took a nap. Really special dogs. The other highlight before taking off was heron pictures on the dock, as you can see below. Don't miss Rebecca's heron poetry in next section.
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A word with a Great Blue Heron...
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Newcastle Island and dock
Early Thursday morning, 6-1-23 we slipped lines and pulled over to the fuel dock to fill up both diesel tanks. Normally, we drop a hook in Mark Bay, but that
is because the docks on Newcastle Island are usually full. As you can see from the picture below, it is pretty much empty. At $2 per meter it sure beats $2 a foot although Nanaimo one does have
to take in consideration that there is power for refreshing all of the batteries, and there is water for the tank. On Newcastle Island dock we will need to run the genset for cooking and recharging
the batteries and start the summer water conservation between ports. Minor details, we got it.
There is a lot of history regarding Saysutshun Newcastle Island and this link provides good information. There is a walk around the island that can take at least 3 hours, unless you arrive with a bike, like the boater in the picture below. In the map it shows the starting point at the docks and the walk will head to the east side where Brownie Point is located. Looking back in the cut you can see Nanaimo. Next, heading up around the outside to McKay Point and looking out at the Strait of Georgia. Then around the top side of Mallard Lake, towards Midden Bay and finally down along the Channel Trail before arriving back in Mark Bay and the docks. Descriptors are provided under each picture. This gives an overview of the order of the pictures taken.
There is a lot of history regarding Saysutshun Newcastle Island and this link provides good information. There is a walk around the island that can take at least 3 hours, unless you arrive with a bike, like the boater in the picture below. In the map it shows the starting point at the docks and the walk will head to the east side where Brownie Point is located. Looking back in the cut you can see Nanaimo. Next, heading up around the outside to McKay Point and looking out at the Strait of Georgia. Then around the top side of Mallard Lake, towards Midden Bay and finally down along the Channel Trail before arriving back in Mark Bay and the docks. Descriptors are provided under each picture. This gives an overview of the order of the pictures taken.
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6-2-2023 Georgia Straits to Refuge Cove
We decided to wait for calm, Friday morning, before crossing Georgia Straits and we were up early. Listening to check the weather channel on VHF radio and had
untied and were on our way by 5:08 AM, heading north up the Newcastle Channel to poke our nose out into Georgia Strait. The sun was doing a beautiful job peeking around the north end of Newcastel Island,
to welcome us on our next leg of travel. With all the best planning there are many variables that can be thrown into the milieu of environmental influences. Well, there was a SE wind coming up Georgia
Straits with an outgoing tide going down at the same time. Meanwhile, we are crossing the straits. Therefore, water going one direction and wind blowing the opposite direction creates steeper waves with
whitecaps that need to be included in the calculation of wind speed. A couple of days ago, the Windy app was saying that Friday was supposed to have 2 to 4 knot winds, easterlies, light and variable.
Well, by the time we actually left on Friday the wind speed was now 8 to 10 knots SE. So, crossing puts us a bit sideways and then pushing with a following sea that means a lot of "steering" the boat
needs to occur to hopefully go in a straight line. Navionics app is a great system for laying a line to follow and staying on that line. We are also hearing that there is a storm coming in with winds
at 30 to 40 knots on Johnstone Strait. We opted to head for Refuge Cove and hang out until after Tuesday of next week.
Refuge Cove, B.C., is a year-round community on West Redonda Island in the heart of the Desolation Sound area of the Inside Passage. It is a quaint place the is a co-opt and it is fun meeting the different owners as they work in the store or on the docks. One person definitely has a perfect set up with his transportation float, to and from work. Love it. The docks are ususally close to being full whenever we arrive and again, the emptiness takes a bit of getting use to other than the, "pick your spot and tie up" option that is rare once the boating season gets started. Co-opt owners shared that it means this happens starting in July. Desolation Sound and Refuge Cove is a highly popular location for boaters. Here is a link for a little history on Refuge Cove and as you can see, it is a year-round facility for supplies and fuel. Store shelfs are a little empty because the "boating season" isn't in full swing, yet. Moorage is $1.30 per foot with only 15 amp power, and water. Looks like water is pretty clear and not have the tannin influence that we might see futher north, as we have in years past. What is tannin in drinking water? This link has more information. Wifi is actually pretty good, however, there are so few boaters using it, that has to be a contributing factor. Again, not looking this gift horse in the mouth.
Refuge Cove, B.C., is a year-round community on West Redonda Island in the heart of the Desolation Sound area of the Inside Passage. It is a quaint place the is a co-opt and it is fun meeting the different owners as they work in the store or on the docks. One person definitely has a perfect set up with his transportation float, to and from work. Love it. The docks are ususally close to being full whenever we arrive and again, the emptiness takes a bit of getting use to other than the, "pick your spot and tie up" option that is rare once the boating season gets started. Co-opt owners shared that it means this happens starting in July. Desolation Sound and Refuge Cove is a highly popular location for boaters. Here is a link for a little history on Refuge Cove and as you can see, it is a year-round facility for supplies and fuel. Store shelfs are a little empty because the "boating season" isn't in full swing, yet. Moorage is $1.30 per foot with only 15 amp power, and water. Looks like water is pretty clear and not have the tannin influence that we might see futher north, as we have in years past. What is tannin in drinking water? This link has more information. Wifi is actually pretty good, however, there are so few boaters using it, that has to be a contributing factor. Again, not looking this gift horse in the mouth.
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6-5-2023 waiting out weather in Refuge Cove
Been a couple of interesting days on the dock with the electrical system. Refuge Cove is a very old marina and the electricals are reflective of the passage of time.
Attention needed to be focused on the voltage and Bill, along with another person, have been working very hard to correct it so that it is safe to plug into 15 amp power. Normally we are 30 amp and bigger
boats are 60 amps. The power coming to the docks is sometimes too high and sometimes to low. Can be hazardous for the boat's electrical system.
We opted to relax here since there were so few boats and a very peaceful location. The surprise was meeting up today with Mary and Ernie on the boat named "Daisy". It is a 32 foot Ranger Tug and looks very comfortable. We met them in Nanaimo when they tied up in front of us and had a chance then to share places and anchorages. It is good to learn from other boaters about places we have never stayed before. Anyway, they had picked up friends in Lund and then had stayed in Melanie Cove before stopping here last night. Their next stop is Von Donop Inlet for the night before continuing to Toba Wilderness, that has a deep water dock and good fishing nearby. After some discussion, with good information from Ernie and Mary, we have decided to give Toba Wilderness a try tomorrow.
We opted to relax here since there were so few boats and a very peaceful location. The surprise was meeting up today with Mary and Ernie on the boat named "Daisy". It is a 32 foot Ranger Tug and looks very comfortable. We met them in Nanaimo when they tied up in front of us and had a chance then to share places and anchorages. It is good to learn from other boaters about places we have never stayed before. Anyway, they had picked up friends in Lund and then had stayed in Melanie Cove before stopping here last night. Their next stop is Von Donop Inlet for the night before continuing to Toba Wilderness, that has a deep water dock and good fishing nearby. After some discussion, with good information from Ernie and Mary, we have decided to give Toba Wilderness a try tomorrow.
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6-6-2023 up Waddington Channel to Toba Wilderness
Bright and early, we were up and seeing how calm it was, decided to leave earlier for Toba
Wilderness,
than originally planned. Coffee once we are underway and batteries have a good charge on them. We headed south around tip of West Redonda Island, then east before heading north up Waddington Channel. Early morning views of mountains is always worth seeing.
Note: We were here a long time ago, with a couple of other boats that knew where to find fresh oysters. Delicious. This year we passed by two different locations with a lot of floats that were colored
black, white or a bright blue. There are patterns in how the floats are laid out. This is definitely not a fish farm. Maybe some kind of shellfish farm. Maybe oyster? Saw a couple of different commercial
crabbers, or prawners. No pots visible to tell the difference. Arrived a bit early and found out that check in time is not until 12:00 pm, or later. So, we went around the point, out of the wind and
cut the motors to drift. The water is so deep around here, practically right up to the shore, that you can drift comfortably with no worries, and keeping an eye on the depth finder, and chart. Found out
that the glacier waters cause some depth finder interference so having two things to look at is better than one (i.e. the chart and the depth finder). Again, very few boats out and about, yet. So, a luxurious
option of views to choose from, although they do direct you where to part and since there are so few boats, they are spacing everyone out to maximize the view for everyone. Very thoughtful. Options included
are power (30 and 50 amp) water, free ice, washroom, showers and garbage drop-off (1 bag only per day) with the overnight moorage. Water is abundant and very clear. Ernie and Mary arrived later in the afternoon
along with their guests that they picked up from Lund, Dan and Nancy. Got a chance to walk to the falls with them and do some kayaking around the island directly out from the docks. There is a map that shows
the walk up to the falls and a separate walk up to a lookout point. Since the falls is the source of the drinking water, everyone is requested to please not go into the water on the hike.
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6-9-2023 Yuculta Rapids to Big Bay
Planning ahead, the slack water for Yuculta Rapids is about 9:20 a.m. and the distance from Toba to entrance is 19 miles, plus 2 1/2 miles getting through all of
Yulculta. Traveling at 8 mph is around 2 1/2 hours, so, we need to leave about 6:30 a.m. in order to arrive shortly before slack water. That way there is time to wait, if we are a bit early, and then
tying up at the Stuart Island Community Association Dock & Store in Big Bay if there is room.
If no room, then we can continue on through Dent Rapids and anchor out someplace near Greene Point Rapids. When rapids are slack, boats are moving, which means
space on docks generally open up as well. We'll see.
Well timed going through Yuculta Rapids, arriving at the Stuard Island community docks at 8:50 AM and water was slack (i.e. not moving either direction). When you pull into these docks, the water is going to be moving from your right to your left, or, from your left to your right; thus, being able to plan which dock you are pulling straight into is a plus with no boats. Today, was perfect.
After our arrival in Big Bay at the Community Dock, as you can see in the picture below, there is lots of room. There were two sailboats here, but they left shortly after our arrival, catching slack north. Another sailboat arrived in the evening slack, so we did have company after all. Never seen so many empty docks. Just wait until July! Anyway, we got to enjoy dolphins swimming around the bay and in the afternoon, they were jumping completely out of the water in the excitement of maybe their school was being let out for the day, or, chasing after big fish and scaring them in their chase. In their display, they took off for waters outside of the bay. Maybe it was dinnertime. A little kayaking hooked us dinner with a nice sized rockfish. Bar-B-Que out and perfect along with a simple salad and a rice mix. Starting to feel like we are really on the boat, now. On the 10th we got a bit of laundry done, and then relaxing and reading and running the genset to keep the battery up. No power on the dock. Plus, started raining on the 9th, after 5:00 pm and overcast and rainy morning on the 10th. There is a lovely caretaker for the General Store and she also handles incoming boaters on the docks. Cindy has not been in this area before and it is a very new learning experience for her, but she brings with her a wealth of knowledge and experience, including former electrician in prior career. Her and Jodi, one of the co-owners, will be handling the store and docks this year. A very nice welcoming committee, along with Tara, another co-owner that volunteers time to help out. In fact, Tara and Cindy met us on the dock to catch our lines when we came in. Very much appreciated and their welcoming smiles made our day.
Planning for tomorrow, the 11th, includes a 33.3 mile run through four rapids, with calculations done averaging a running speed of 8 mph.
Well timed going through Yuculta Rapids, arriving at the Stuard Island community docks at 8:50 AM and water was slack (i.e. not moving either direction). When you pull into these docks, the water is going to be moving from your right to your left, or, from your left to your right; thus, being able to plan which dock you are pulling straight into is a plus with no boats. Today, was perfect.
After our arrival in Big Bay at the Community Dock, as you can see in the picture below, there is lots of room. There were two sailboats here, but they left shortly after our arrival, catching slack north. Another sailboat arrived in the evening slack, so we did have company after all. Never seen so many empty docks. Just wait until July! Anyway, we got to enjoy dolphins swimming around the bay and in the afternoon, they were jumping completely out of the water in the excitement of maybe their school was being let out for the day, or, chasing after big fish and scaring them in their chase. In their display, they took off for waters outside of the bay. Maybe it was dinnertime. A little kayaking hooked us dinner with a nice sized rockfish. Bar-B-Que out and perfect along with a simple salad and a rice mix. Starting to feel like we are really on the boat, now. On the 10th we got a bit of laundry done, and then relaxing and reading and running the genset to keep the battery up. No power on the dock. Plus, started raining on the 9th, after 5:00 pm and overcast and rainy morning on the 10th. There is a lovely caretaker for the General Store and she also handles incoming boaters on the docks. Cindy has not been in this area before and it is a very new learning experience for her, but she brings with her a wealth of knowledge and experience, including former electrician in prior career. Her and Jodi, one of the co-owners, will be handling the store and docks this year. A very nice welcoming committee, along with Tara, another co-owner that volunteers time to help out. In fact, Tara and Cindy met us on the dock to catch our lines when we came in. Very much appreciated and their welcoming smiles made our day.
Planning for tomorrow, the 11th, includes a 33.3 mile run through four rapids, with calculations done averaging a running speed of 8 mph.
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4 rapids between Big Bay and Forward Harbour
Gillard Passage is 1 mile away and slack is at 1:25 PM
Dent Rapids is 3.5 miles away and slack is about 20 minutes earlier
Greene Point Rapids is 18 miles away, and slack is at 12:17 PM and running about 4 mph when we arrive, with lots of turbulence.
Whirlpool Rapids is 30 miles away and last to go through right before Forward Harbour and will definitely be running when we arrive, if we are traveling north on the same day.
We need to do some planning and will break this into a two day trip, to catch Dent and Greene Point at slack, because there is too much travel time to catch them both if heading north. When we return, no problem going through these four and Yuculta all on the same day. Time works in our favor and hopefully we will catch slacks right before incoming tides so that current is going our way as well. Stuart Island is the turning point for tides. Before Stuart Island, in Desolation Sound, when tides go out, they go south and incoming tide heads north. After Stuart Island with Yuculta and Arran Rapids, when tide goes out the current goes north and thus incoming tide heads south.
***Read an interesting article about "Running the Yaculta Rapids and North (Our turn)", like we are looking at with a total distance of 68 miles, over two to three days. Based on weather, we will be taking longer or shorter trips each day.
Dent Rapids is 3.5 miles away and slack is about 20 minutes earlier
Greene Point Rapids is 18 miles away, and slack is at 12:17 PM and running about 4 mph when we arrive, with lots of turbulence.
Whirlpool Rapids is 30 miles away and last to go through right before Forward Harbour and will definitely be running when we arrive, if we are traveling north on the same day.
We need to do some planning and will break this into a two day trip, to catch Dent and Greene Point at slack, because there is too much travel time to catch them both if heading north. When we return, no problem going through these four and Yuculta all on the same day. Time works in our favor and hopefully we will catch slacks right before incoming tides so that current is going our way as well. Stuart Island is the turning point for tides. Before Stuart Island, in Desolation Sound, when tides go out, they go south and incoming tide heads north. After Stuart Island with Yuculta and Arran Rapids, when tide goes out the current goes north and thus incoming tide heads south.
***Read an interesting article about "Running the Yaculta Rapids and North (Our turn)", like we are looking at with a total distance of 68 miles, over two to three days. Based on weather, we will be taking longer or shorter trips each day.
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6-12-2023 to Shoal Bay
Because of winds, plus we are having too much fun relaxing here, we opted to stay one more day in Big Bay. So, today we will be going as far as Shoal Bay, or
Corderoa Islands, or Blind Channel. Slack in Gillard Passage is at 1:25 PM, which means Dent Rapids is around 1:00 PM. We will pull out around 1:00 PM in order to go through Gillard against a slight
current in order to catch the slack in Dent Rapids and the Devil Hole. Lots of stories about the whirlpool actions, especially in the Devil's Hole so it is best to be very careful while going over
these waters. Depending on the continuing marine forecast, we decide on how
far we will go each day.
Got through Gillard Passage and Dent Rapids with no problems and smooth sailing. Motoring along we decided to check out anchorage in the Cordero Islands and maybe do some fishing, instead of Shoal Bay. We passed Shoal Bay and were going around Godwin Point when we ran smack into the 'wind factor' that had been holding us up in Big Bay. After a brief discussion about anchoring in the Cordero Islands and wondering how much protection there would be from this wind we were experiencing, or, tying up at the government dock in Shoal Bay, the boat did a fast U-turn. We ended up secure for the night on the government docks in Shoal Bay. There were several boaters on the docks who went out of ther way to catch our lines, making for an easy docking experience. Our 38' Bayliner has a little history in Shoal Bay. Jim and Karen, the prior owners, happened to be tied up in Shoal Bay when we arrived on our 32 foot boat at the end of the summer of 2005. Turns out that we had been looking at 38' Bayliners and, they were thinking of selling their 38' Bayliner. Lots of discussion later, led to us selling our 32' and buying our current boat.
Got through Gillard Passage and Dent Rapids with no problems and smooth sailing. Motoring along we decided to check out anchorage in the Cordero Islands and maybe do some fishing, instead of Shoal Bay. We passed Shoal Bay and were going around Godwin Point when we ran smack into the 'wind factor' that had been holding us up in Big Bay. After a brief discussion about anchoring in the Cordero Islands and wondering how much protection there would be from this wind we were experiencing, or, tying up at the government dock in Shoal Bay, the boat did a fast U-turn. We ended up secure for the night on the government docks in Shoal Bay. There were several boaters on the docks who went out of ther way to catch our lines, making for an easy docking experience. Our 38' Bayliner has a little history in Shoal Bay. Jim and Karen, the prior owners, happened to be tied up in Shoal Bay when we arrived on our 32 foot boat at the end of the summer of 2005. Turns out that we had been looking at 38' Bayliners and, they were thinking of selling their 38' Bayliner. Lots of discussion later, led to us selling our 32' and buying our current boat.
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Big Bay to SHOAL BAY and new friends...
While we were in Big Bay, we had a wonderful opportunity to meet Don and Susan on the boat 'Aquila Bay'. After catching our some fish on the first day there, we went over to ask if they would like to have
fresh fish for dinner. They said that would be lovely and after cleaning and filleting the rockfish, delivery was made. At this point, they were the only other boat on the docks. We were invited on
board their boat for happy hour and had a chance to chat and exchange boating information, and other tall stories as well with Don and Susan. They are from Vancouver, BC and are in the process of
traveling to Shearwater, a favorite location for them. Like most boaters, "where are you headed for tomorrow" quite often is decided on the morning of travel (unless planning ahead for wind or rapids),
and Don and Susan were no different. Not making decisions, is a good boating theme, until you are ready to decide.
While the four of us were visiting on Don and Susan's boat, in came 3 sailboats. So we all went out to meet, greet and catch lines for them as they arrived. Turns out they are out of Victoria, BC and traveling together: Chris and Jill on the 'Stargazer'; Jim and Judy on the 'Griffin' and Paul on 'Moon Shadow'. Afterwards we all went back to our varying boats for the evening and dinners. The next morning, while exchanging information on currents for Dent Rapids, we found out that a couple of the sailboaters were going for a hike to Eagle Lake and it was good to get out and stretch legs.
Shoal Bay - because it was the afternoon going through the rapids, we relaxed on the boat for the evening, enjoying the view up Phillips Arm. For the first time, the dock is full and there was no more room. There was another boat already tied up to the dock, Jim and Pam, that is going to travel up around the north end of Vancouver Island and then down the outside, southward and around to Victoria. Oh, and the three sailboats from Big Bay arrived and tied up as well. Some of them are planning to hike up the next morning to a 'lookout point' and to a gold mine.
While the four of us were visiting on Don and Susan's boat, in came 3 sailboats. So we all went out to meet, greet and catch lines for them as they arrived. Turns out they are out of Victoria, BC and traveling together: Chris and Jill on the 'Stargazer'; Jim and Judy on the 'Griffin' and Paul on 'Moon Shadow'. Afterwards we all went back to our varying boats for the evening and dinners. The next morning, while exchanging information on currents for Dent Rapids, we found out that a couple of the sailboaters were going for a hike to Eagle Lake and it was good to get out and stretch legs.
Shoal Bay - because it was the afternoon going through the rapids, we relaxed on the boat for the evening, enjoying the view up Phillips Arm. For the first time, the dock is full and there was no more room. There was another boat already tied up to the dock, Jim and Pam, that is going to travel up around the north end of Vancouver Island and then down the outside, southward and around to Victoria. Oh, and the three sailboats from Big Bay arrived and tied up as well. Some of them are planning to hike up the next morning to a 'lookout point' and to a gold mine.
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6-14-2023 Forward Harbour and 37 years
Plans to go through Greene Point Rapids and Whirlpool Rapids meant leaving Shoal Bay around 1:00 PM. We left at 12:50 and ended up going against the current a bit
before reaching Greene Point. It was reaching slack, more or less. A tug pulling a short logboom was going through at the same time and we needed to give it a wide berth not knowing what might be
streaming out from it underwater (i.e. lines or even hitch-a-long crabpots mistakening picked up, we saw that once). Victor and Caroline, on Moonshine left at about the same time, planning for
Forwards Harbour as well. Later, found out they stopped off in Sidney Bay. The wind was in our face the majority of the way down Chancellor Channel until we turned
to go up Wellbore Channel and then through Whirlpool Rapids. Current was going our direction which is always nice when going through a rapids if it is just moving along. Word among boaters is that the
Whirlpool Rapids are the least challenging of the five rapids along this section of the trip. In Forward Harbour
there were 5 motor vessels and 6 sailboats already anchored. Must have been why we saw two
sailboats leave as we were approaching and they went straight across from the entrance to Forward Harbour and dropped anchors on the SE side of Althorp Point. Looked pretty protected from the NW winds. We
figured out where to drop our anchor in Douglas Bay and backing down, ended up in the middle of all of the boats currently anchored with lots of swing on the hook. Watched it for a bit to make sure and then relaxed for
the rest of the day with an early anniversary dinner and off to bed. Will set the alarm for 4:00 in the morning to check weather.
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6-15-2023 ... to Lagoon Cove projection ...
Below is chart from Forward Harbour to Lagoon Cove. No rapids, just wind factor in Johnstone Strait and then catching Chatham Channel going our way.
Johnstone Strait winds on Monday were Northwest at 25 mph with gale warning in effect, increasing to 30 to 40 mph at different times. Tuesday will be winds Northwest 30 to 40 mph.
On Wednesday winds were Northwest 28 to 40 mph. Thursday winds are Northwest are projected diminishing to light. After getting through rapids, we planned on scooting up Johnstone Strait Thursday
morning.
Planning usually includes a 5:00 AM departure from Forward Harbor. It will take an hour to pull anchor and get down Sunderland Channel before turning west to head up Johnstone Straits. Run up Johnstone to Broken Islands is 14.5 miles. If wind kicks up we can duck out and anchor in Port Neville. Takes roughly 2 1/2 hours to travel from the bottom of Sunderland Channel to Broken Islands in order to get off Johnstone Strait
Chatham Channel has a fairly strong current that is always nice to plan for going your direction. Plans include refueling in Lagoon Cove and possibly stay the night. Overall, roughly 38.5 miles. Then, next stop... Bob and Pat.
So, here's what happened: we listened to weather at 4:00 AM and it said winds were light. As soon as it was light enough to see we pulled the anchor and were underway at 5:01 AM. Current out of Forward Harbour was going our way and we slipped around the north end of Whirlpool swirls from the overflow of the rapids. Going down Sunderland Channel, current was running nicely putting us up to the speed of 10 mph (remember, we run about 8 mph at 1800/1900 rpms), so this was looking good. The sunrise behind us was glorious and a good start to the morning. Entrance to Johnstone continued the same patterns and with this speed, we were definitely going to make it to Chatham Channel before it turned. Saw a few porpoises on the trip up and also found out that Victor and Caroline were going to be heading for Port Neville today. Going around Broken Islands, we entered Havannah Channel for the 7 mile run to the foot of Chatham Channel and bear watching. Speed slowed down to 9 mph, after traveling most of Johnstone Strait between 10 and 11 mph. What a fast trip and waters flat with a light ripple. We definitely caught a window between winds. Up Chatham, smooth sailing and when we pulled into Lagoon Cove.
Planning usually includes a 5:00 AM departure from Forward Harbor. It will take an hour to pull anchor and get down Sunderland Channel before turning west to head up Johnstone Straits. Run up Johnstone to Broken Islands is 14.5 miles. If wind kicks up we can duck out and anchor in Port Neville. Takes roughly 2 1/2 hours to travel from the bottom of Sunderland Channel to Broken Islands in order to get off Johnstone Strait
Chatham Channel has a fairly strong current that is always nice to plan for going your direction. Plans include refueling in Lagoon Cove and possibly stay the night. Overall, roughly 38.5 miles. Then, next stop... Bob and Pat.
So, here's what happened: we listened to weather at 4:00 AM and it said winds were light. As soon as it was light enough to see we pulled the anchor and were underway at 5:01 AM. Current out of Forward Harbour was going our way and we slipped around the north end of Whirlpool swirls from the overflow of the rapids. Going down Sunderland Channel, current was running nicely putting us up to the speed of 10 mph (remember, we run about 8 mph at 1800/1900 rpms), so this was looking good. The sunrise behind us was glorious and a good start to the morning. Entrance to Johnstone continued the same patterns and with this speed, we were definitely going to make it to Chatham Channel before it turned. Saw a few porpoises on the trip up and also found out that Victor and Caroline were going to be heading for Port Neville today. Going around Broken Islands, we entered Havannah Channel for the 7 mile run to the foot of Chatham Channel and bear watching. Speed slowed down to 9 mph, after traveling most of Johnstone Strait between 10 and 11 mph. What a fast trip and waters flat with a light ripple. We definitely caught a window between winds. Up Chatham, smooth sailing and when we pulled into Lagoon Cove.
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Lagoon Cove
We refueled and then found a spot on the dock on a finger dock pointing to the west with a view. Around 3 in the afternoon, a 63' Ocean Alexander pulled in
alongside us and we immediately lost wi-fi. That is a big boat. The host, Dan, once apprised of the situation, said he had an extender for his Starlink that he would set up on the electric box,
after happy hour at 5 pm. He did and it worked great. Thank you Lagoon Cove for being so considerate.
A couple of days in Lagoon Cove. Dan and Kelly are the primary caretakers/owners visible on a daily basis,
along with an employee, Brandon, who goes out for prawns at 6:00 every morning. They are doing a really good job keeping things operating smoothly. The commercial prawners have a much shorter
prawn season this year and have been going through areas much more vigorously than in the past, thus making prawns a little scare in this area for Dan and Kelly to keep up the tradition of prawns during
happy hour every day. Monday, June 19, their season closes, and so prawns will start refurbishing areas for boaters and hopefully for Dan and Kelly as well. There is a new building being built on a
float on the north end of the docks. It will be moved over to the extra guest dock, to the north of the main docks, once building is complete and will be quarters for employees of Lagoon Cove.
On our last day here, Moonshine with Victor and Caroline and Aquila Bay with Don and Susan arrived to stay the night. Caroline and Rebecca went for a hike on the trail to The Blowhole, taking along bear spray, bear horn and sticks to make sure they were prepared for any necessities. An empty green beans can with rocks in it is also a good deterrent, but smacking two sticks together, or using them to steady themselves on steep sections of trails, also works really well. John and Susan on the sailboat 'Oceanus III' went around the backside of Farquharson Island and spotted a grizzly bear and cub and graciously provided two pictures. Thank you to both of them.
On our last day here, Moonshine with Victor and Caroline and Aquila Bay with Don and Susan arrived to stay the night. Caroline and Rebecca went for a hike on the trail to The Blowhole, taking along bear spray, bear horn and sticks to make sure they were prepared for any necessities. An empty green beans can with rocks in it is also a good deterrent, but smacking two sticks together, or using them to steady themselves on steep sections of trails, also works really well. John and Susan on the sailboat 'Oceanus III' went around the backside of Farquharson Island and spotted a grizzly bear and cub and graciously provided two pictures. Thank you to both of them.
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6-18-23 off to Bob and Pat
We originally met Bob and Pat, when we would stop in Lagoon Cove and they were the year round caretakers. They were a highlight point during our summer travels,
when we stopped in at Lagoon Cove. They have moved on to be caretakers on a private island, and are a real joy to stop in and see in person; especially after all of the emails throughout the winter. We
got a chance to catch up and share 'stuff' over several days while sharing dinnertime tall tales, like always. It was good to relax on the boat in the morning, have breakfast, before wandering up to the
house and see what Bob and Pat might be working on for the day. Time really flew and between walks, chats, getting caught up on e-mails and other miscellaneous details, our time simply flew by just spending
time with them. Really, time to go again. There were deer, raccoons, minks and squirrels adding to the character of the days along with beautiful sunsets. What an idyllic time with two wonderful people. Our
last day there, 'Second Wind' came in with Steve and Alice aboard. We sat down that evening sharing dinner between the six of us and they were a delight to meet and get to know as well. Turns out that they
live on their sailboat in Anacortes. They hand make their boat cards and we were gifted one.
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Simple life
Simply clean
Trees of life
Listening.
Winds arouse
Roaring through
Breaking boughs;
Mist and dew.
Coons and minks
Play around
Shadows sink
Without sound.
This creation
A mystery
Of First Nation's
Long history.
In the morning
Fog sits down
Horns loud warnings
Don't go aground.
Sun's arising
Breaking through
Waters dancing
Scents rise anew.
The air is fresh
Both in and out
To synchromesh
Heart, soul, no doubt.
..................by Rebecca Pratt 6-25-2023
6-23-23 Tsatsisnukwomi (New Vancouver)
Text messaging with Caroline and Victor on 'Moonshine', we arranged to meet them at the First Nation village called
New Vancouver on Harbledown Island.
It's true name is Tsatsisnukwomi, which means “place of the eelgrass.” It’s not clear why it's called New Vancouver, instead of, say, Eelgrass. Maybe they had no choice as the Canadian government
so kindly gave the land back to them, after forcing them to leave back in the ‘60s. The people in Tsatsisnukwomi are descendants of the original villagers. They have built a big house complete with family
totems. This nation orginates from Knight Inlet. They had four villages there, but were mostly wiped out by smallpox. They moved down here next to the village of Mamalilaculla, which they married
into and Tsatsisnukwomi was a wedding gift. Amy and McKenzie are primary hosts and very accommodating. Family members help with the guided tour of the big house, which
has a separate fee, and the Tsatsisnukwomi Tour Company includes a lot of history
about the Da'naxda'xw and Awaetlala First Nation tribes, especially the background and history of their family.
This is a wonderful place to stop and do laundry), take showers, and just relax; all for a reasonable price. Wi-fi and power are included in the dockage fee, also very, very reasonable. There is not room for a lot of boats, but definitely well worth the stop.
When we pulled up to the docks at Tsatsisnukwomi, there is a sign and behind it is a big totem with a little totem next to it, at the head of the dock. There is also a welcoming committee: Lightning, Duke, Coda, Merlin and, sometimes Sheba. Sheba never came out but the other four were very warm and loving in their welcoming (and very vocal) and stayed around to keep us company on the docks. Caroline came prepared with doggy bones and the group were really happy to see her. Over dinner with Victor and Caroline on board that evening, plans were made to meet at Shawl Bay on the 25th, to see if they were open and welcoming boaters this year. If not, we decided on a couple of anchoring options. Wish us luck.
This is a wonderful place to stop and do laundry), take showers, and just relax; all for a reasonable price. Wi-fi and power are included in the dockage fee, also very, very reasonable. There is not room for a lot of boats, but definitely well worth the stop.
When we pulled up to the docks at Tsatsisnukwomi, there is a sign and behind it is a big totem with a little totem next to it, at the head of the dock. There is also a welcoming committee: Lightning, Duke, Coda, Merlin and, sometimes Sheba. Sheba never came out but the other four were very warm and loving in their welcoming (and very vocal) and stayed around to keep us company on the docks. Caroline came prepared with doggy bones and the group were really happy to see her. Over dinner with Victor and Caroline on board that evening, plans were made to meet at Shawl Bay on the 25th, to see if they were open and welcoming boaters this year. If not, we decided on a couple of anchoring options. Wish us luck.
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Rainbow Eyes is a survivor of intergenerational trauma. Her awareness of that heritage began after a childhood in Calgary when, as a young adult, she returned to her mother’s ancestral village of Tsatsisnukwomi in northern B.C. Her nation had been reduced to just five families after the 1860s smallpox epidemic, and her maternal grandfather, aunts and uncles are survivors of the notoriously brutal St. Michael’s Residential School at Alert Bay.
6-25-23 Shawl Bay
Shawl Bay is located at the entrance to Kingcome Inlet in Simoom Sound. It is a quaint little marina with the Broughton Island charm. About a 24 mile run, starting at
New Vancouver and going across Knight Inlet, then carefully through Spring Passage, up Retreat Passage, avoiding Browne Rock (underwater but very eminent) to enter Cramer Passage, passing Echo Bay
(lot of history) with Billy Proctor's Museum tucked around the corner and then heading up to go through Penphrase Passage before hooking around Vigis Point to enter Shawl Bay. See chart below. Tracking
down the history of Shawl Bay is a challenge.
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Shawl Bay, Moore Bay, Greenway Sound, Hoy Bay and Claydon Bay with Victor and Caroline
Special Note: since we left New Vancouver, we lost all wi-fi access. Up to now, we could make use of our mobile hotspot for wi-fi access, because there are cell
towers sporadically available. Once we were north of Knight Inlet, nothing. There used to be open wi-fi as we moved along, and those are all gone as well. It is like entering a black hole. Hence, the
sporadic updates. We seriously need to look at Starlink for next year.
6-25-2023 off to see if Shawl Bay is open, or not. Victor and Caroline, on their sailboat Moonshine, left the Goat Islands area an hour ahead of us; planning to meet up along the way, or, at our destination. We were sorry to say goodby to Dave and Liz who are getting ready to take off on a 'year long' trip across Canada and then south along the Atlantic seaboard before heading back across the bottom half of the US and then northward on the Pacific seaboard (some where) and back to home in New Vancouver on the Harbledown Island. Bon Voyage and have a wonderful time Dave and Liz.
We crossed Knight Inlet and carefully threaded the various rocks in Spring Passage, before heading north up Retreat Passage. Right before entering Cramer Passage, you have to watch out on the charts for Browne Rock. Passed Echo Bay off our starboard side then up through Raleigh Passage, before heading down Penphrase Passage and hanging a 180 at the bottom around Vigis Point to go into Shawl Bay. We spoke with Frank, on the dock and due to a recent death in immediate family, Shawl Bay is currently not open. The original owners were priceless and it was a real treasure to stop in and stay for a couple of days. Rustic back then but huge welcome every time we tied up.
Along with Moonshine, we motored around Gregory Island to find a protected anchorage on the east side, tucked between Gregory and Thief Island. Good bottom for anchoring. Caroline had never been kayaking before and so the ladies were off on an adventurous trip to find a little lagoon, and maybe a few bears. Two hours later and much sorer, they returned with some great pictures of the lagoon, some mergansers they unexpectedly came upon, and Old Man Mountain. Discussion during evening visit led to tomorrow's decision. No luck crabbing. No other boats in the area.
6-26-23, after breakfast, we all took off for the head of Greenway Sound to find anchorage in front of the Broughton Lagoon, for both of our boats. Quick, easy trip, looking for bears with no luck, but amazing views along the way. Greenway Sound Marine Resort is now permanently closed and for sale, whole or in parts. It lasted 26 years, from 1985-2010. However, there are several good anchorage locations and we picked one in front of the Broughton Lagoon with protection and beautiful views. This article writes about lazy days in Greenway Sound. When looking at the entrances to the Broughton Lagoon, the rapids on the left can be entered with a dinghy, but you really have to watch the currents, because it becomes really fast when running, and you can be stuck inside waiting for it to slow down. Heard this from another boater who this happened to, several years ago. It was pretty late by the time they were finally able to enter the rapids in the semi-dark and go through to get back to their boat. We tried to anchor in front of the rapids on the left, while Moonshine went over to explore dropping a hook in front of the smaller rapids on the right. We tried three times and never could get a bite. The kelp kept filling up the anchor before it could dig into the bottom. Went over to the smaller rapids and dropped the anchor with a good bite on the first attempt. Was very challenging in the other location while backing down and not wanting to get too close to the rapids, nor the shores, while setting the hook. We were both a little exasperated by the third try, but got over it quickly with the wonderful setting we moved to. Moonshine dropped their anchor twice, setting on the second attempt. Good for them. No kayaking for Caroline today, resting up from yesterday. They brought dinner over with them when they came over to chat about tomorrow. Delicious and what a treat. Thank you. No luck crabbing. When we came in, three boats left and no other boats entered to anchor.
6-27-23 Breakfast first and then off to Hopetown Passage in Hoy Bay. Easy cruising and great traveling with Moonshine with another beautiful day on the water. Passed Sullivan Bay off our port side and turned right to go into Dunsany Passage. We saw whales playing just outside of Patrick Island at the head of Patrick Passage. Swung around and got to watch them, along with Moonshine, spouting for a bit. Then, one big old tail came out of the water and the whales sounded and then disappeared. Waited for a bit. No luck so we continued on to Hoy Bay. On the east side of Hoy Bay, there are two little islands with no names. We anchored right between them with some protection and great views. Crab pots dropped and off to explore the narrow Hopetown Passage that goes dry in a very low tide. Caroline was game for another trip and had her camera ever ready. At higher tides, smaller boats carefully navigate this passage. It is always good to kayak because you see things from a very different view that makes you more cautious about waterways. The ladies reported back that there was a boat anchored in a little bay at the head of Hopetown Passage, that visits there every year just for the ambiance and view. In the background, there is a sheer wall rising up out of Burly Bay that really adds to the view. Returning, Caroline reported that the waters in Hopetown Passage took a lot of extra hard paddling to get back through. Once through, the boats looked like a long way away for two tired ladies, after that exercise. All's well, they made it back safe and sound, and not much wetter. For a first time kayaker, Caroline learned quickly and made sure she never splashed her partner. Good job on the paddling Caroline. No luck crabbing. No other boats in the area, nor anchored. One small boat went through Hopetown Passage, very slowly since it was near low tide.
6-28-23 Caught the slack waters for fishing in the morning for lings and/or halibut but with no luck. We returned to the boats, pulled the crabpots (no crabs) and then pulled the anchors for Claydon Bay. Since Victor and Caroline were on a timeline for when they needed to begin their trip homeward, we wanted to share one more anchoring location with them for their last night. By the time we were all tucked in the back, northeastern corner of the bay, the day was almost gone. Victor and Caroline joined us for dinner aboard and we had a great time chatting about many different topics. They live near the southern end of Sechelt in BC and have many stories to tell. After dinner, we were sitting and chatting and it started sprinkling, then raining. While we quickly closed the bridge and the open hatches over the heads, Victor and Caroline gathered up their belongings to head back to their boat to close up things as well. Quick goodbyes and even quicker paddling by Victor, got them back to their boat in a timely manner. After all that rushing, it decided to stop raining for awhile. Go figure, it happens up here a lot. Rain just can't seem to make up its mind about when it wants to fall. However, the more rain the better. Been a little dryer this year which is not a good thing. We all relaxed for the evening, listening for loons and other sundry creatures of the area.
Caroline had shared an app she has on her phone called Merlin Bird ID by Cornell Lab and it does an amazing job picking up and identifying bird sounds. It then provides information on the bird identified. No luck crabbing. One sailboat came in, and anchored; but no other boats in the area. 6-29-23 In the morning, Victor and Caroline pulled their anchor some time around 8:00 a.m. to head out; but swung by to say goodbye before they left. We will miss their company. They are very positive and upbeat, finding joy and discoveries every day and happily sharing them with us. Bon Voyage and safe trip home with flat waters and easy winds.
6-25-2023 off to see if Shawl Bay is open, or not. Victor and Caroline, on their sailboat Moonshine, left the Goat Islands area an hour ahead of us; planning to meet up along the way, or, at our destination. We were sorry to say goodby to Dave and Liz who are getting ready to take off on a 'year long' trip across Canada and then south along the Atlantic seaboard before heading back across the bottom half of the US and then northward on the Pacific seaboard (some where) and back to home in New Vancouver on the Harbledown Island. Bon Voyage and have a wonderful time Dave and Liz.
We crossed Knight Inlet and carefully threaded the various rocks in Spring Passage, before heading north up Retreat Passage. Right before entering Cramer Passage, you have to watch out on the charts for Browne Rock. Passed Echo Bay off our starboard side then up through Raleigh Passage, before heading down Penphrase Passage and hanging a 180 at the bottom around Vigis Point to go into Shawl Bay. We spoke with Frank, on the dock and due to a recent death in immediate family, Shawl Bay is currently not open. The original owners were priceless and it was a real treasure to stop in and stay for a couple of days. Rustic back then but huge welcome every time we tied up.
Along with Moonshine, we motored around Gregory Island to find a protected anchorage on the east side, tucked between Gregory and Thief Island. Good bottom for anchoring. Caroline had never been kayaking before and so the ladies were off on an adventurous trip to find a little lagoon, and maybe a few bears. Two hours later and much sorer, they returned with some great pictures of the lagoon, some mergansers they unexpectedly came upon, and Old Man Mountain. Discussion during evening visit led to tomorrow's decision. No luck crabbing. No other boats in the area.
6-26-23, after breakfast, we all took off for the head of Greenway Sound to find anchorage in front of the Broughton Lagoon, for both of our boats. Quick, easy trip, looking for bears with no luck, but amazing views along the way. Greenway Sound Marine Resort is now permanently closed and for sale, whole or in parts. It lasted 26 years, from 1985-2010. However, there are several good anchorage locations and we picked one in front of the Broughton Lagoon with protection and beautiful views. This article writes about lazy days in Greenway Sound. When looking at the entrances to the Broughton Lagoon, the rapids on the left can be entered with a dinghy, but you really have to watch the currents, because it becomes really fast when running, and you can be stuck inside waiting for it to slow down. Heard this from another boater who this happened to, several years ago. It was pretty late by the time they were finally able to enter the rapids in the semi-dark and go through to get back to their boat. We tried to anchor in front of the rapids on the left, while Moonshine went over to explore dropping a hook in front of the smaller rapids on the right. We tried three times and never could get a bite. The kelp kept filling up the anchor before it could dig into the bottom. Went over to the smaller rapids and dropped the anchor with a good bite on the first attempt. Was very challenging in the other location while backing down and not wanting to get too close to the rapids, nor the shores, while setting the hook. We were both a little exasperated by the third try, but got over it quickly with the wonderful setting we moved to. Moonshine dropped their anchor twice, setting on the second attempt. Good for them. No kayaking for Caroline today, resting up from yesterday. They brought dinner over with them when they came over to chat about tomorrow. Delicious and what a treat. Thank you. No luck crabbing. When we came in, three boats left and no other boats entered to anchor.
6-27-23 Breakfast first and then off to Hopetown Passage in Hoy Bay. Easy cruising and great traveling with Moonshine with another beautiful day on the water. Passed Sullivan Bay off our port side and turned right to go into Dunsany Passage. We saw whales playing just outside of Patrick Island at the head of Patrick Passage. Swung around and got to watch them, along with Moonshine, spouting for a bit. Then, one big old tail came out of the water and the whales sounded and then disappeared. Waited for a bit. No luck so we continued on to Hoy Bay. On the east side of Hoy Bay, there are two little islands with no names. We anchored right between them with some protection and great views. Crab pots dropped and off to explore the narrow Hopetown Passage that goes dry in a very low tide. Caroline was game for another trip and had her camera ever ready. At higher tides, smaller boats carefully navigate this passage. It is always good to kayak because you see things from a very different view that makes you more cautious about waterways. The ladies reported back that there was a boat anchored in a little bay at the head of Hopetown Passage, that visits there every year just for the ambiance and view. In the background, there is a sheer wall rising up out of Burly Bay that really adds to the view. Returning, Caroline reported that the waters in Hopetown Passage took a lot of extra hard paddling to get back through. Once through, the boats looked like a long way away for two tired ladies, after that exercise. All's well, they made it back safe and sound, and not much wetter. For a first time kayaker, Caroline learned quickly and made sure she never splashed her partner. Good job on the paddling Caroline. No luck crabbing. No other boats in the area, nor anchored. One small boat went through Hopetown Passage, very slowly since it was near low tide.
6-28-23 Caught the slack waters for fishing in the morning for lings and/or halibut but with no luck. We returned to the boats, pulled the crabpots (no crabs) and then pulled the anchors for Claydon Bay. Since Victor and Caroline were on a timeline for when they needed to begin their trip homeward, we wanted to share one more anchoring location with them for their last night. By the time we were all tucked in the back, northeastern corner of the bay, the day was almost gone. Victor and Caroline joined us for dinner aboard and we had a great time chatting about many different topics. They live near the southern end of Sechelt in BC and have many stories to tell. After dinner, we were sitting and chatting and it started sprinkling, then raining. While we quickly closed the bridge and the open hatches over the heads, Victor and Caroline gathered up their belongings to head back to their boat to close up things as well. Quick goodbyes and even quicker paddling by Victor, got them back to their boat in a timely manner. After all that rushing, it decided to stop raining for awhile. Go figure, it happens up here a lot. Rain just can't seem to make up its mind about when it wants to fall. However, the more rain the better. Been a little dryer this year which is not a good thing. We all relaxed for the evening, listening for loons and other sundry creatures of the area.
Caroline had shared an app she has on her phone called Merlin Bird ID by Cornell Lab and it does an amazing job picking up and identifying bird sounds. It then provides information on the bird identified. No luck crabbing. One sailboat came in, and anchored; but no other boats in the area. 6-29-23 In the morning, Victor and Caroline pulled their anchor some time around 8:00 a.m. to head out; but swung by to say goodbye before they left. We will miss their company. They are very positive and upbeat, finding joy and discoveries every day and happily sharing them with us. Bon Voyage and safe trip home with flat waters and easy winds.
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Jennis Bay Marina in Drury Inlet
Stayed a couple of days in Claydon and it rained a couple of days as well. Have stayed here in Claydon Bay, the past and remember very rainy days,
that seemed unending. Also, we caught a lightning storm in here one year with some amazing photos. July 1st we decided to see if Jennis Bay Marina is open this year, and, what they might
have to offer. In researching, we ran across an article in Canadian Yachting that
mentions Kim and Kent as managers/owners of Jennis Bay Marina.
Currently, Peter is posted in ...and Willie Said... blogspot as the owner, with his
sister Allyson running it with her family. When we arrived, we were greeted by Gustavo who happened to mention that Peter had just flown out that morning. Oh, what a missed chance to catch up on history.
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Maintenance Time and other Funny Business
This summer John has a few health challenges and we are working through them together. In the meantime, I am helping him on different maintenance chores and repairs. For example: after we arrived at
Sullivan Bay,
the next morning John says, "Rebecca, I am going to show you how to change the joker valve on the head in your bathroom." "WHAT?!!" 🚽
John proceeded to show me what tools to gather up, including a gigantic-sized flathead screwdriver; and where to locate the spare parts we would be replacing. You wouldn't believe all of the containers with various parts that are necessary for maintenance and repairs, while traveling on the boat. This was a repair assignment due to the high pitched whistling sound that was occurring after every time the head was used. Several rags were on standby, for necessities, as needed, and we ended up changing not only the joker valve but the base flapper valve as well. John shared that when you change one you generally change the other as well. Running low on parts in this department and will put in an order once we return to home port.
Side note: maybe it is called a "joker" valve because the tricuspid design is similar to the 3-pointed hats worn by jesters. Someone once shared that the joker valve looks remarkably similar to human heart valves. Regardless, it is an unfunny job to do, so maybe that's why it's called the joker valve. Now that I have learned how the head really works, I will definitely go easier on the pumping handle and action.
Maintenance - John has shown me how to get into the engine room (careful what you step on when going down alongside the starboard engine) and where to check the fluid levels on the genset (generator) and the main engines (twin Hino diesels 175 HP) and transmissions. Also, how to check the bilge pumps and shafts for leakage. This is all part of regular maintenance and looking for problems that may become serious if not taken care of in a timely manner.
There's a dinghy on the boat. John has shown me how to think of things that I haven't had to consider before. He is including me in the maintenance, raising, lowering and repairs on the inflatable as well as checking the 20HP Honda motor for proper operation and peeing capacity.
Electrical system- the understanding of volts, amps and ohms along with reading the various meters has been a good learning experience as well. I now know how, and why, to defrost our refrigerator and to always check the thermostats for proper cooling. The 'why' behind defrosting involves removing the frost build up otherwise the refrigerator ends up not cooling like it should and thus making the motor work harder and draining our batteries quicker on anchorages, since it is running for longer periods.
Special note: There are so many things throughout the entire boat to be looking at as you pass it by, or open the engine covers to get out the crab or prawn pots, getting something out of the fridge; or even on the bridge and underway that it can be kind of mind boggling without and organized and methodical type of thinking. John says that he is always keeping his eyes open and looking for things that don't look right. A good 'sniffer' is also handy to have on the boat, for smells like 'hot plastic' or burning wires.
When on the dock (i.e. Sullivan Bay ) then it is time to go to work. Doesn't mean we won't get out and do a little fishing, too!
John proceeded to show me what tools to gather up, including a gigantic-sized flathead screwdriver; and where to locate the spare parts we would be replacing. You wouldn't believe all of the containers with various parts that are necessary for maintenance and repairs, while traveling on the boat. This was a repair assignment due to the high pitched whistling sound that was occurring after every time the head was used. Several rags were on standby, for necessities, as needed, and we ended up changing not only the joker valve but the base flapper valve as well. John shared that when you change one you generally change the other as well. Running low on parts in this department and will put in an order once we return to home port.
Side note: maybe it is called a "joker" valve because the tricuspid design is similar to the 3-pointed hats worn by jesters. Someone once shared that the joker valve looks remarkably similar to human heart valves. Regardless, it is an unfunny job to do, so maybe that's why it's called the joker valve. Now that I have learned how the head really works, I will definitely go easier on the pumping handle and action.
Maintenance - John has shown me how to get into the engine room (careful what you step on when going down alongside the starboard engine) and where to check the fluid levels on the genset (generator) and the main engines (twin Hino diesels 175 HP) and transmissions. Also, how to check the bilge pumps and shafts for leakage. This is all part of regular maintenance and looking for problems that may become serious if not taken care of in a timely manner.
There's a dinghy on the boat. John has shown me how to think of things that I haven't had to consider before. He is including me in the maintenance, raising, lowering and repairs on the inflatable as well as checking the 20HP Honda motor for proper operation and peeing capacity.
Electrical system- the understanding of volts, amps and ohms along with reading the various meters has been a good learning experience as well. I now know how, and why, to defrost our refrigerator and to always check the thermostats for proper cooling. The 'why' behind defrosting involves removing the frost build up otherwise the refrigerator ends up not cooling like it should and thus making the motor work harder and draining our batteries quicker on anchorages, since it is running for longer periods.
Special note: There are so many things throughout the entire boat to be looking at as you pass it by, or open the engine covers to get out the crab or prawn pots, getting something out of the fridge; or even on the bridge and underway that it can be kind of mind boggling without and organized and methodical type of thinking. John says that he is always keeping his eyes open and looking for things that don't look right. A good 'sniffer' is also handy to have on the boat, for smells like 'hot plastic' or burning wires.
When on the dock (i.e. Sullivan Bay ) then it is time to go to work. Doesn't mean we won't get out and do a little fishing, too!
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What's next...?
How to Equalize House Batteries: in other words, trying to bring the batteries up to a state that they were in, when they were brand new.
1.............Remove Heart Interface Meter (4 screws) under the lower helm wheel.
2.............Cycle Dip Switch #1 off and on (one second)
3.............Battery LED light will start flashing and stay flashing while in Equalize Mode. Goes off after 8 hours and then everything goes back to normal.
BEFORE EQUALIZE MODE:
1.............Disconnect Refrigerator Fuse - compartment where refrigerator fuse is (TV Anetnna) make sure that you are connected to shore power and turn on refrigerator circuit breaker (always on)
2.............Lift up House Battery Box Lid (which is under where we store the Bar-B-Que) and hold open with a wedge (about 1 1/2")
3.............Leave Engine Room Door open to allow any battery gases to escape. NOTE: Battery Accy Switch will go to 16 volts, which is normal (means batteries are good and kicking the calcium off the the plates, producing a rotten egg smell from the gases being produced). Let it operate for 8 hours - finished!
4...........Afterwards when all done, before closing house battery lid, check water levels on all batteries and test with a hydrometer to see the state of charge of each cell. Hydrometer checks the cells specific gravity of electrolyte (its weight compared to water).
And yes, went out fishing and after an initial sea bass run, managed to hook a couple of nice-sized lingcods.
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Things are getting FISHY around here!
Early morning high tide leads to unexpected adventures. Whales were not spouting around and birds weren't swarming around balls of bait; however, the eagle came over and chattered for a little bit.
Guess he was asking how the fishing was going. Shortly after, a hit and a big one was on. That puppy (fish) did not want to come up and went back down several times. John grabbed the net and then
standing by and waiting. In the water we could see that the lingcod had a smaller rockfish in it's mouth and the size of the ling was making us both wonder if it was going to fit in the net. John stuffed
the head and upper body in the net and with the extra help of grabbing the tail we got the fish in the dinghy. Needless to say, we were kind of done fishing and heading back to the dock to do the cleaning
and fileting of this monster. Took us awhile with both of us holding or fileting this one. Whew!
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7/10/23 Gull in ACTION!
Kayaking and Barnacles
Paddling through currents with wide whirlpools,
And listened to hints of the whispering news,
Turned out to be seagulls setting about on a log.
As it drifted on past, close by in the dense fog.
Were the gulls discussing the current weather,
Or are they trying to out bicker each other?
It seemed they have the latest details to share,
In different pitches, and so without a care!
They paced up and down with their bobbing heads,
Picking at barnacles exposed between cedar threads,
Seeking out succulents of which they would gloat.
And one gull had a sea star firmly stuck in it's throat!
by Rebecca Pratt 7-10-23
Paddling through currents with wide whirlpools,
And listened to hints of the whispering news,
Turned out to be seagulls setting about on a log.
As it drifted on past, close by in the dense fog.
Were the gulls discussing the current weather,
Or are they trying to out bicker each other?
It seemed they have the latest details to share,
In different pitches, and so without a care!
They paced up and down with their bobbing heads,
Picking at barnacles exposed between cedar threads,
Seeking out succulents of which they would gloat.
And one gull had a sea star firmly stuck in it's throat!
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July days moving around and other adventures...
Before leaving Sullivan, we had a chance to visit with Arthur on 'Santiago'. He showed us how the Rainman watermaker works and it is definitely something else to put on our 'To Do' list for next summer (Means
being able to use water a little more rather than frugality while on the anchor!), along with the Starlink. The next to the last picture below is the intake valve that drops into the saltwater and Arthur has a
nice-sized round ball of weight to hold it several feet below the surface. Anyway, we were glad to 'get out of Dodge' what with being surrounded by BIG boats! Does make great shade and no rocking on the
docks from boats passing by in Wells Passage. However... and looking at the floathome, can you imagine living here all summer?!!! What a view, and the whales have been known to come in. In fact, there is one or
two spouting out in Wells Passage and with our view on the outside of Dock #1, we have front row seating. If they would only come in a little closer. We were told that a humpback whale not only came in close,
but actually swam underneath the fish cleaning station and then underneath docks 1, 2 and 3, plus alongside someone on a paddleboard, the day before we arrived this time.
It seems like we are doing a whole lot of nothing; however, there is much to keep up, keep cleaning, keeping doing and keep going. After 9 days on the dock to catch up on all of those things that need cleaning and reorganizing, we departed for Claydon Bay to check out the crabbing, one more time, and to relax before heading back to Sullivan Bay to see if a package had arrived for us. It was so green in Claydon. There are a few pictures reflecting our view from anchorage. Exploring around we found the 'whale in the woods' was still hanging around. It said hello to us when we arrived but we didn't hear it's welcoming echo. Always nice to have a friendly face, upon our return. Is this our second, or third, time here? Not sure!
Crabbing in Claydon was definitely picking back up to the standards of the past, and it is interesting how dungeness crabs travel on the bottom. Not sure where they came from, but crabs definitely like the location. As do we from how green it is in the pictures below. Very, very peaceful and relaxing; except when pulling crabpots, and cracking, cleaning, cooking and cracking crabs. Yes, the cracking happens twice.
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It seems like we are doing a whole lot of nothing; however, there is much to keep up, keep cleaning, keeping doing and keep going. After 9 days on the dock to catch up on all of those things that need cleaning and reorganizing, we departed for Claydon Bay to check out the crabbing, one more time, and to relax before heading back to Sullivan Bay to see if a package had arrived for us. It was so green in Claydon. There are a few pictures reflecting our view from anchorage. Exploring around we found the 'whale in the woods' was still hanging around. It said hello to us when we arrived but we didn't hear it's welcoming echo. Always nice to have a friendly face, upon our return. Is this our second, or third, time here? Not sure!
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Crabbing in Claydon was definitely picking back up to the standards of the past, and it is interesting how dungeness crabs travel on the bottom. Not sure where they came from, but crabs definitely like the location. As do we from how green it is in the pictures below. Very, very peaceful and relaxing; except when pulling crabpots, and cracking, cleaning, cooking and cracking crabs. Yes, the cracking happens twice.
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The Life of a Dungeness Crab
* Maximum life expectency for Dungeness crab is about 10 years. Most commercially caught Dungeness are 4 years old when they are between 6 ¼ and 7 inches wide across their carapace.
* The Zoea period (right after hatching from eggs) includes 5 stages and lasts from winter to spring, with the dungeness crabs taking on a larval form similar to many other crustaceans. They live suspended in water and swept out to the ocean via currents due to limited swimming abilities.
* Megalopae, becoming a crab with a reduced tail and growth. This stage occurs in the spring and summer when ocean currents are moving shoreward, continuing to carry the suspended in water young dungeness crabs which are an important prey item for vast numbers of larger animals such as coho salmon and grey whales.
* Juvenile crab, settled to their home and feed on a variety of small invertebrates, such as sea squirts, jellyfish, sea anenomes, and ascidians.
* From now on, the dungeness crab will molt only once a year.
* Mass molt - Adult crab populations tend to molt simultaneously, Females in the spring, Males in the late summer. When preparing to molt, a crab’s old shell separates from the new one inside of the old one. At this time the new shell (exoskeleton) absorbs water and become larger. This causes a split at their “molt line”, located mid horizontally on the carapace. The new and extremely soft crab now has the flexibility to back out of its old shell and because the new crab is very vulnerable to predators it’s done quickly. Soon after the live crab has exited it will bury itself in sand to allow the new shell to harden.
* Exuvia! What is amazing, is to find one of these on the beach. The dungeness crab shell is left behind from the molting process. The exuvia is very whole, as the crab leaves even its old gills, antennae, and mouthparts behind.
* Crab reproduction - Dungeness crab can only successfully mate when the female is newly molted. For this reason, in early spring, adult male crabs seek female crabs that are likely to molt soon. Crabs will stay in this “pre-mating embrace” until females molt, this can go on as long as two weeks.
* In the fall, females begin extruding eggs and fertilizing them with the sphores stored from spring mating. The eggs start out as bright orange with the females hold the eggs in place with wide abdominal flap on its belly. As the eggs develop and become closer to hatching they turn blackish, when they are released into the water to begin the cycle all over.
* The Zoea period (right after hatching from eggs) includes 5 stages and lasts from winter to spring, with the dungeness crabs taking on a larval form similar to many other crustaceans. They live suspended in water and swept out to the ocean via currents due to limited swimming abilities.
* Megalopae, becoming a crab with a reduced tail and growth. This stage occurs in the spring and summer when ocean currents are moving shoreward, continuing to carry the suspended in water young dungeness crabs which are an important prey item for vast numbers of larger animals such as coho salmon and grey whales.
* Juvenile crab, settled to their home and feed on a variety of small invertebrates, such as sea squirts, jellyfish, sea anenomes, and ascidians.
* From now on, the dungeness crab will molt only once a year.
* Mass molt - Adult crab populations tend to molt simultaneously, Females in the spring, Males in the late summer. When preparing to molt, a crab’s old shell separates from the new one inside of the old one. At this time the new shell (exoskeleton) absorbs water and become larger. This causes a split at their “molt line”, located mid horizontally on the carapace. The new and extremely soft crab now has the flexibility to back out of its old shell and because the new crab is very vulnerable to predators it’s done quickly. Soon after the live crab has exited it will bury itself in sand to allow the new shell to harden.
* Exuvia! What is amazing, is to find one of these on the beach. The dungeness crab shell is left behind from the molting process. The exuvia is very whole, as the crab leaves even its old gills, antennae, and mouthparts behind.
* Crab reproduction - Dungeness crab can only successfully mate when the female is newly molted. For this reason, in early spring, adult male crabs seek female crabs that are likely to molt soon. Crabs will stay in this “pre-mating embrace” until females molt, this can go on as long as two weeks.
* In the fall, females begin extruding eggs and fertilizing them with the sphores stored from spring mating. The eggs start out as bright orange with the females hold the eggs in place with wide abdominal flap on its belly. As the eggs develop and become closer to hatching they turn blackish, when they are released into the water to begin the cycle all over.
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July 16th - anchoring at Dickson Island
We have always enjoyed this spot and have many tales to tell over the years. Dickson Island is about 7 miles west of Sullivan Bay via Wells Passage. We were set
to leave Sullivan Bay last Thursday, but John's medicine ran into a postal snafu after it was shipped from Edmonds by our good friend Rich. Well, long story short, it is now suppose to be flown in from Port
Hardy this next Thursday the 20th. So we decided to motor down to Dickson Island, one of our favorites, for a few days to fish for halibut. We are stern-tied to shore using one of the many available lines
that have been provided by generous boaters to make it easier to tie your stern line. When the tide is low, you have to try to crawl up slippery rocks to find suitable limbs, trees, etc., to attach the line
around. Then back down the slippery slope and carefully get on the dinghy while holding the end of the line to bring it back to the boat. Of course, you have to drop your anchor first so that you are sort
of swinging from front to rear. Once you finish, your boat should stay pretty well centered. This is a nice anchorage, that is used by boaters that like to fish James Point. This spot is were the salmon
come in from Queen Charlotte, the gateway to the Pacific Ocean. Here, we have our 2nd bear sighting (much, much closer this time) and the bear was doing the usual rolling over rocks like they were just
pebbles. The crustaceans it was eating had to be very crunchy. Ah, each to its own. As it meandered back into the woods, we could see that the bear was also grazing the tall green grass. A deer came around a
different day and was also munching on the grass, just like the bear did earlier.
Out fishing early in the morning and using Navionics on cell phone to navigate the dinghy safely out to area in Queen Charlotte Sound. Eerily beautiful noisy murrelets swimming and calling all around us. The sun was trying to poke its sunny head and not having much luck for quite some time. Definitely added to the ambiance of fishing. When the sun glows out over the water, on a calm day like this, it is amazing. And when you look in the opposite direction, as shown in the last picture, it is a totally different view at the same time. Came back empty-handed and a boater next to us shared that it could have been the orcas that were there. Salmon and orcas don't get along well.
While out fishing the second day, we had the opportunity to watch a couple of whales from our dinghy (way in the distance) spyhopping with loud smacking the water sounds traveling a long ways. In both pictures, the entire whale is completely out of the water, except for the tail. To try and describe this area isn't too hard. Morning time with low clouds, fog and very calm water. The sun did try to come out and left you with blue skies, beautiful clouds, many islands, lots of birds diving for fish, and John and Rebecca talking about old times being together with friends; Alex, Kris and Dennis fishing and sharing this peacefulness. What a wonderful day. Back at the boat, the afternoon sun hits the shoreline with a view to relax and enjoy. The two pictures with sunlit trees, are off the starboard side of the boat with the sunset view off the port side.
Out boating, you meet unlikely people even when anchored out (hmmm... wonder if people think the same about us). Bill and Linda are another couple that live on their boat year round. We visited with them a couple of different times and Bill shared a picture of the Pentair watermaker that he has installed. This one can create 50 gallons of freshwater an hour, from salt water. The Rainman that we mentioned earlier can create 30 gallons of freshwater, an hour. We always learn something from each couple we meet and leave with a sense of good fellowship, hoping to see them again, somewhere, up here. While out fishing, we are so close to the islands that we often see the bright sea life, clinging to the rocks while a merganser floats nearby. Watching Serenity pull up anchor, it was a good heads up what we will most likely see on our anchor as well. The problem with so much bull kelp on the anchor, it doesn't allow the anchor to get a good bite on the bottom. When we pulled our anchor, it looked just the same and takes a boat hook to clear it off.
Chart below shows some spots we have been to, while hanging around up here.
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Out fishing early in the morning and using Navionics on cell phone to navigate the dinghy safely out to area in Queen Charlotte Sound. Eerily beautiful noisy murrelets swimming and calling all around us. The sun was trying to poke its sunny head and not having much luck for quite some time. Definitely added to the ambiance of fishing. When the sun glows out over the water, on a calm day like this, it is amazing. And when you look in the opposite direction, as shown in the last picture, it is a totally different view at the same time. Came back empty-handed and a boater next to us shared that it could have been the orcas that were there. Salmon and orcas don't get along well.
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While out fishing the second day, we had the opportunity to watch a couple of whales from our dinghy (way in the distance) spyhopping with loud smacking the water sounds traveling a long ways. In both pictures, the entire whale is completely out of the water, except for the tail. To try and describe this area isn't too hard. Morning time with low clouds, fog and very calm water. The sun did try to come out and left you with blue skies, beautiful clouds, many islands, lots of birds diving for fish, and John and Rebecca talking about old times being together with friends; Alex, Kris and Dennis fishing and sharing this peacefulness. What a wonderful day. Back at the boat, the afternoon sun hits the shoreline with a view to relax and enjoy. The two pictures with sunlit trees, are off the starboard side of the boat with the sunset view off the port side.
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Out boating, you meet unlikely people even when anchored out (hmmm... wonder if people think the same about us). Bill and Linda are another couple that live on their boat year round. We visited with them a couple of different times and Bill shared a picture of the Pentair watermaker that he has installed. This one can create 50 gallons of freshwater an hour, from salt water. The Rainman that we mentioned earlier can create 30 gallons of freshwater, an hour. We always learn something from each couple we meet and leave with a sense of good fellowship, hoping to see them again, somewhere, up here. While out fishing, we are so close to the islands that we often see the bright sea life, clinging to the rocks while a merganser floats nearby. Watching Serenity pull up anchor, it was a good heads up what we will most likely see on our anchor as well. The problem with so much bull kelp on the anchor, it doesn't allow the anchor to get a good bite on the bottom. When we pulled our anchor, it looked just the same and takes a boat hook to clear it off.
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Chart below shows some spots we have been to, while hanging around up here.
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July 18th - and back to Claydon Bay
Hoping the crabs are continuing to come back, we decided to stay in Claydon for a couple of days before heading over to Sullivan for 'the package'. It is
always a good thing, to see an eagle show up when we are out fishing. However, no halibut today. Did pick up some lunker-sized crabs, which is great to see. The last picture shows remains from a logging
camp on floats. Still a couple of old docks floating over there, one with an aluminum skiff still perched on it and a sunken boat. When it is high tide, the nose of the boat sticking up is not visible
and is a hazard for boaters. Wonder if anything is going to be done about that one? It was there last year, as well. During the covid hiatus, not sure what happened, but that boat was not there before.
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July 20th - back to Sullivan, and rain...
Yes, the package came in the mail. We are good to go. Did catch some ambiance pictures of this area and on the 22nd, it really opened up and rained hard
most of the morning. 10:50 a.m. fishing date is off. Besides, a few other chores needed tending to, while on power. Tomorrow, off to Dickson and the elusive halibut... or salmon. Bill and Linda, on Serenity,
are anchored back there again and he sent a message this morning that he threw back a small one and caught a nice sized salmon, in the rain. Well, someone has to be fishing out there, right?
Note: in the first picture, there is a rainbow over the Sullivan Bay docks.
Note: in the first picture, there is a rainbow over the Sullivan Bay docks.
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July 23rd Dickson Island, and more rain...
We have been on the boat for three months now; two of them actually out and about, traveling through Canada. We have never spent this much time on our boat,
just working on it and then traveling. Whew! All is well and have gotten along admirably.
We headed back down to Dickson to hopefully get out and do a little fishing, however, the rainy weather while in Sullivan Bay, continued here over the next several days. Did get out a couple of times, with no halibut biting, anywhere. Had one big hit, but it got off quickly. Changing from fishing the low tide to fishing the high tide, took a little bit of recalculating currents and slack times. It is different. Plus, the high tides were later in the day, so the wind factor was also becoming a contributing challenge. We found out that the Spring salmon have come, and gone, with the King salmon not yet having arrived. Well, all said and done, it was beautiful and relaxing being out on the Queen Charlotte in the dinghy.
We headed back down to Dickson to hopefully get out and do a little fishing, however, the rainy weather while in Sullivan Bay, continued here over the next several days. Did get out a couple of times, with no halibut biting, anywhere. Had one big hit, but it got off quickly. Changing from fishing the low tide to fishing the high tide, took a little bit of recalculating currents and slack times. It is different. Plus, the high tides were later in the day, so the wind factor was also becoming a contributing challenge. We found out that the Spring salmon have come, and gone, with the King salmon not yet having arrived. Well, all said and done, it was beautiful and relaxing being out on the Queen Charlotte in the dinghy.
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July 28th Waddington Bay
Well, we both kind of decided to head for Waddington Bay, we were ready to stopped being skunked. We went down the east side of Queen Charlotte in the early
morning, heading out into somewhat foggy weather. Radar was on standby, if it decided to suddenly sit down and obscure our view. It has been known to happen before and never hurts to be prepared. Using
Navionics have plotted out all of the settings on both an iPad and a cell phone. (Again, doesn't hurt to have back up and really paid off today because unbeknownst to us, the iPad wasn't plugged in and when
it was down to 10%, it shut down. This happened right when we needed to carefully thread our way in between the many rocks outside of the entrance to Waddington Bay. FIVE more minutes??? Cell phone was good
and made it in safely.) It was very calm on Queen Charlotte's water and we got to travel through an area we had never been in before. There are so many places to duck out of weather and anchor in. However,
Sunday Harbour is very exposed to westerly winds (that blow, a LOT, up here) and Monday Anchorage may have a number of bays, bights, and covers; it still looked way to open for anchoring. We traveled up the
south side of Eden Island, and then down the east side of Tracey Island before entering the rocks around the NE corner of Bonwick Island for Waddington Bay. Did a couple of fishing adventures and came back
with one of our all time favorite fish: greenlings. Such a delicacy. We are starting to get restless as the end of summer is approaching (especially starting to receive text messages, "Um, when are you guys
returning?") and so after catching the beautiful sunrise on the morning of July 30th, we both were ready to "pull the anchor" once again. Next stop, New Vancouver. Need to charge up the batteries on the dock
before stopping in to see our special friends, Bob and Pat, before we continue southward.
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July 30th DA’NAXDA’XW / AWAETLALA FIRST NATION
There is a very informative website about
Tsatsisnukwomi. The Da'naxda'xw First Nation is an amalgamation of the
Da'naxda'xw and
Awaetlala tribes of Knight Inlet. Tsatsisnukwomi provides a tour that gives you some history.
There is so much information shared that it is hard to put it all in order. There is a memorial totem
at the head of the dock, in honor of the chief who brought them all back together on this island. On the front of the Big House there are four totems on the building and the far right one has the prediction,
over a hundred years ago, that this chief would make this happen. There is a small totem next to the big memorial totem for one of the chief's grandsons who died in his early 30s, in a car crash. The two totems
in front of the Big House are family totems. The paid tour includes going inside The Big House and the anticipation of waiting outside the main door for it to open from inside, is a treat. Walking in, you step
on sand that was brought in from Knight Inlet. When a potlatch is held, everyone enters with bare feet, to be more closely connected with Mother Earth. The work done by the chief who built The Big House is
amazing. Regal that is worn during a potlatch is displayed on the walls. There are two spirits, one to the right of the door and one to the left of the door. The one on the right gathers up children who
wander off too far. The one on the left gathers up the lost who either committed suicide or drowned at sea. There are four headdresses, and the artwork in each of these treasured items is amazing. There is
a huge open firepit in the center. At the other end of the The Big House is the "heartbeat" which used to be the chiefs, but now is the young people, who sing and use drums and rattlers. This big house can hold
300 people. During the potlatch, the only one speaking is the person standing next to the "talking stick". It is considered very rude to be talking or interrupting. There is a huge 'feast dish' for the
start of the feast and it holds eulachon oil. Eulachon oil is highly sought, and this first nation is fighting to keep their eulachon stocks protected from logging, fish farms and any other threats to the
natural habitats, and patterns, of this precious resource. Many look for an invitation to the potlatch held in this Big House, but only 300 can come. When other first nations arrive, many come in canoes
built by hand. There is a ceremony to welcome the visitors and we are not sure how long a potlatch goes on for. The difference between the Big House and the Long House was important, and the explanation
shared was that the Long House has a wooden floor, and thus less connection to the Mother Earth. In the Big House, all enter barefoot on the sand floor in order to be directly connected with the Mother Earth.
It is important to respect the heritage and the values that are continuing to be passed down, once more, from the older generation to the younger ones; including the orignial languages. It was an honor to be able to experience what one chief did, in this location, to rebuild his family and his first nation. It will take a long time for this to occur and great healing needs to continue happening as the younger generations do not all have the blessing of being able to live in a village like this one on the Harbledown Island. In conclusion, we feel very honored to be here and to learn about some of the history and customs of this First Nation (there is so much more to learn and know). We definitely plan to return here again.
It is important to respect the heritage and the values that are continuing to be passed down, once more, from the older generation to the younger ones; including the orignial languages. It was an honor to be able to experience what one chief did, in this location, to rebuild his family and his first nation. It will take a long time for this to occur and great healing needs to continue happening as the younger generations do not all have the blessing of being able to live in a village like this one on the Harbledown Island. In conclusion, we feel very honored to be here and to learn about some of the history and customs of this First Nation (there is so much more to learn and know). We definitely plan to return here again.
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The primary host and hostess is Amy and Mackenzie who are celebrating their first wedding anniversary on the day we arrived, July 30th. Happy Anniversary to a delightful and gracious couple.
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Bob and Pat,
Time well spent
Five days of fun, sun and dining spendifically; along with gracious time given to visit and relax. They are busy in their, 'getting ready for winter'
mode which involves dealing with downed trees, converted to firewood, along with trail clearing and numerous others hats they wear as caretakers. Pat and Rebecca did do clearing trail walks while Bob was bucking
wood with chainsaw and then a splitter. On one day, Pat got out the scissors and John proceeded to have a very much needed haircut, on the lawn. Best barber in town. Curl-less and looking definitely
much better, Pat did an amazing job with Rebecca looking on and giving help as needed. It doesn't seem like much; however, the days flew by quickly. Bob took time to show Rebecca how to begin carving
feathers and provided pieces of yellow cedar. She completed the feather that she had started when we stopped by in June, and has begun a new feather. Listening to the weather, we were both getting a bit
antsy to start heading south. It sounded like wind was up to it's usual tricks (unpredictable and/or blowing hard) so we said our goodbyes, before heading back over to New Vancouver to pay our bills.
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Words...
Goodbyes and Helloes
Intersecting pathways
Remote, are far and few
Light up with a brilliance
As sunlit morning dew
Relationships enduring
Distance, time accrued
Hugs, and resilience
Strengthens bonds anew
Timelessness connections
Deep purple, and some blue
A living full experience
That one and all should do
Things we most should cherish
Are hellos and breathing through
Enjoying each's existence
Before you bid Adieu.
by Rebecca Pratt Poems, Pics, and Prayers
Hidden words everywhere
Sacred rhythms, evening prayer
Restores our inner love affair
Bringing breaths of freedom's air
Slips of moments, in heartbeats
Slices through the chaff and wheat
Waters back life's flames and heat,
Shields our soul in sweet retreat
Soul's views through our eyes
Brings us bits of lows and highs
Colored with decision's dyes
Planting seeds from old and wise
Poems, pics, and prayers aware
Helps us get through daily fare
Like sunglasses reflecting glare
We stand and breathe in living prayer
by Rebecca Pratt
Heading southward... reluctantly...
Travel time - New Vancouver 8/7 to Shoal Bay 8/11:
It is that time again, saying goodbyes as we pass over the waters, heading southward; wind permitting! First stop is Lagoon Cove to fuel up. On approach to the fuel docks, noticed the floathome that they are building has been moved to the 'honeymoon dock' and is waiting for windows and doors to put in (heard they were on order). Since the winds for the 10th are looking to be light, we did not stay the night. Did get a picture of Lagoon Being closer in the morning to Johnstone Straits, makes it easy to catch the calm at first light. So, we cruised on through first, The Blowhole, then down Chatham Channel with current going our way, thank you very much Mr. Saltwater. As we ran down Havannah Channel, looking out on Johnstone, we could see white tips. If waves have whitecaps, that means the wind is blowing and we prefer to avoid rough water conditions when favorable. Turned right and went up Port Harvey to find a good spot to drop the hook. Shallowed up pretty quickly and a couple of hollered warnings from below when someone (not naming who) could see the bottom; the person at the helm was turning the wheel as quickly as possible to get back out to a little deeper water. Whew. Only got to 10 feet and there are times when going through The Blowhole it can be less than 10 feet; not to mention the south end of Swinnomish Channel and seeing it go as shallow as 7-8 feet.
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August 9th: Nice night anchored in Port Harvey and pulled out by 5:50 AM after bringing up the anchor and storing things away. Ripples on Johnstone Strait was great and running up Sunderland Channel with current going our direction was even better.
August 10th: Anchored for the night in Forward Harbour, after scooting past the northern end of Whirlpool Rapids to get in. Kayak trip up to the head was interesting and found the sign, "Forward Harbour" was still on one of the buildings. The only resident was the local heron. Said good afternoon, but it flew away. Ah! Not real friendly in here, are they? Oh well. There is an interesting wreck not far from the head that looks like maybe an old barge?
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August 11th: Next morning we waited until 10:00 to catch current going our way through Whirlpool Rapids then up Chancellor Channel to Greene Point Rapids to catch right before slack. We were 'thinking' about stopping in the Cordero Islands and anchoring; however, both of us were concerned about weather/wind for Georgia Straits. Continued to Shoal Bay and had a nice stop for the night; finding one empty spot on the dock that gave us a couple of feet in front of the bow pulpit and maybe 4 feet off the dinghy on the stern. Anyway, help on the dock to catch a line always makes for easier docking and getting tied up. Thank you fellow boaters. We enjoyed our night on the dock and chatted with a couple of other boaters. Good to see who is going where and any possible tidbits for traveling is a good thing.
On the morning of August 12th, we were planning to leave around 7:00 a.m. to catch slack waters going trough Dent Rapids, Gillard Passage and then Yulculta Rapids. Good thing we got up early.....
Faugust... you've heard of that. Right? 8/12
We woke up to a very solid fog, with visibility down to...none. Couldn't even see the shore, from the dock. Well, get up early and leave even earlier, in order to catch the rapids at slack. That's what we did. Just as we were pulling into the channel, we spotted a boat on the radar, going our direction. We dropped in behind, very closely so we could actually see them and then proceeded to follow them while double checking our route we had already plotted on Navionics. Because they were traveling roughly 5 mph hour, we felt good about following while still keeping an eye on our equipment, plus the water in front of us for deadheads. At times, it was lifting, but then would set back down, again! Came out of Dent Rapids and could see for a bit, and then another batch of fog was sitting on Gillard Passage, and continuing in to Yuculta Rapids. Came out of the south end of Yuculta and just like last year, all is clear. Entering Desolation Sound, you go from one weather zone into another, much warmer environment. Once you've crossed the fog line, then it gets warm.
Foggy Misgivings
The sun comes up, and the fog sits down
Gleefully causing many fishers to frown
Rant and rail for it to move, its lazy butt
Gets no response, except stress in the gut.
It views to disrupt, with moisture all around
Tickling the senses, just like a silly clown
Then it starts lifting, "Oh! Rocks! Don't go aground!"
As the fog sets its 'willy butt', back on down.
Now, sitting in a tiny cup of limited visibility
Reading the equipment, takes eyeball flexibility
Boaters move along through fog's misty trousers
In a dreamy existence of droplet rabble-rousers
Water's in a ripple, it used to be flat and calm
Did wind pull it's fipple, bringing breeze in it's palm
To shove along the fog's moody stubborn butt
As it's lifting it's arms and screeching, "WHAT?!?"
by Rebecca Pratt
Faugust
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Refuge Cove
August 12th through 14th:
After leaving the rapids we spotted the spouting of whale/s in the distance. A boat came buzzing along near where they were and the whale/s disappeared. Heading south, we were seeing more and more
boats and so we wondered what it was going to be like at Refuge Cove.
Plan A: Fuel up and then get a spot on the dock if looking not busy.
Plan B: If fuel dock is looking busy, and there is a lot of open spots on the dock, then get tied up.
When we came in shortly before noon, there were a lot of boats going in, coming out, and anchored out in front of the marina. Looking for a spot, we saw one right in front of the floatplane dock. Pulling
up alongside of it, we figured we would fit. Barely. A gal on a boat in front of where we were pulling in came out to catch a line. Much appreciated because once more, two feet of clearance in front of
the bow pulpit and maybe four feet clearance behind the dinghy on the stern (didn't we just do this?). All's well that ends well. We were listening to the weather channel and the prediction was not good.
We can always just hang out here for a couple of days, before refueling and continuing south to Pender Harbour. Over the next couple of days we experienced floatplanes coming in astern of us on the dock
and watched a variety of boats coming and going. The store in Refuge Cove is very well provisioned and the boat traffic is continuous all day long. Very sunny and warm.
We had floatplanes coming up the the dock every day and the pilots were very good about where their wings were, on approach to the dock. Missed us by a mile, every time. The other interesting tidbit is
the number of different types and sizes of boats that came through every day. What a great location to do "boat watching". Forget the birds, the boats were much more interesting to watch. Had boats pulling
in, right in front of us, with not much room and all of the captains seemed to adjust to the challenging docking strategies needed, for getting in and getting out. There are only four electric power statioins
on the dock and so at night time, quite often, the rest of the docks were emptier. But come sunrise... here comes the boats!
Walking around to the fuel dock, happened to notice a guy on a sailboat had a bird sitting on his hand. After a couple of trips back and forth (don't remember why so many trips out to the fuel dock) grabbed
cell phone to get a picture. The story goes: He was on the bow of his boat and the purple martins were buzzing by, busy bumping off bugs for their bellies. One of them flew too low to the water, went "splat"
and was not able to get back up. It flapped its wings on the water to the dock and this guy hopped down and scooped it up out of the water. Bird must have knocked it three-ways silly and appeared to feel
very safe in his hands. When he would set it down, on nearby cushion, he could tell it became agitated. He was able to dribble water in its beak and then would doze off to sleep. Close up picture taking did
not appear to agitate or worry the purple martin at all. It appears to be a juvenile bird, which explains it's flying skills, or lack thereof. Did not see the sailboat the next morning to find out if the bird
recovered and took wing. We will never know the rest of this story! Spent three nights here, leaving on the morning of the 15th. Sounds like Georgia Strait is having a conniption fit and not calming down,
from whatever has her trousers in a twist, per continuous weather reports via VHF and other apps.
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...on to Pender Harbour
August 15th through 20th:
Well, looks like we might be here for a few days, but there is always something to report. The boat on the opposite side of the slip that we came in, was named 'True Love'. Jim and Fawn were very happy to
help catch a line and help us. It was a bit breezy and extra hands makes docking a 'piece of cake', more or less. Turns out they are second generation owners of Dick's Hamburgers in Seattle and keep their
boat in Elliot Bay in Seattle, WA. Jim's father started the franchise and Jim and Fawn were partners in the business for many years. They have recently retired and now their daughter has become 3rd
generation owner of the business. Believe they shared that they have 11 locations. Wow! Anyway, great people and they have their webpage that looks fantastic, of their travels. The
Travel Adventures of Jim and Fawn Spady. They left the next morning on their way up to Princess Louisa Inlet, with friends
on board. Great people.
We are hanging out here in Pender Harbor at John Henry's marina, enjoying some drama on the dock and other interesting stories. We heard about a 112' boat losing its big double-motor dinghy on the beach
in Buccaneer Bay on Thormanby Island. Also heard its anchor and 200+ feet of chain is on the bottom of the bay, too. Turns out it was blowing 40+ mph but not sure why they let go of their chain. Regardless,
in the picture below the dinghy on the beach is the big one on the left side of the picture. In the morning, we both had noticed a huge 112' MY named Ascente was circling the bay in front of the marina.
We both wondered about it and after I had researched the name, found out it was a yacht for hire (https://www.worthavenueyachts.com/charter-yacht/ascente-11674/). The little dinghy was up on the hardtop
and that's how we knew which vessel was beached.
We found out about this after a dive boat pulled in and tied up across from us on our slip. They were here to fix the problems on the dock. As we were sitting with our morning coffee, we noticed that we
were swinging from the shade to the sunlight and back again. The docks were swinging in the wind and wave chop, much more than they should have been doing and in the pictures below, you can see the ramp
is skewed way over from where it should be. Friendly guys and they were happy to explain that they were brought in, July 2023, to finish rebuilding the marina docks because the prior contractor was fired.
The job should have been done by early May and they were still caterwauling away in July. Leastwise, the owner was caterwauling and fired the contractor. The guys shared there were many things that needed
to be done and for today they were going to tighten the chains at the end of each slip (there are two chains going down to a 12' by 12' by 12' cement block) and in a couple of other spots too. They also
added a chain to the shore side of the dock right in front of where the ramp comes down.
One guy mentioned that when they get done with this job, they would be going down to Buccaneer Bay to rescue the anchor and chain from the bottom and that their barge would be getting the dinghy off the beach.
Not sure when that job was finished because the MY Ascente was still circling in the bay when we went to bed last night. Wish we knew the rest of that story, including why the chain was on the bottom, with
the anchor. A 60' Ocean Alexander pulled in alongside us on our slip today. After helping them tie up, we chatted with them for a bit. Nice people. When we told them about the MY Ascente, he had an even
better story.
He heard this story while it was happening over VHF radio. A nice sized sailboat was another vessel for hire and the people on it were chatting with the owners company via VHF radio.
Sailboat, "We will need some more anchors."
Owners, "Why, you have four anchors on board?"
Sailboat, "Yes, but we have rented the boat for six nights."
Apparently the owners came out and took over the sailboat! The gentleman who shared this story said it all really happened.
Anyway, here for a couple of more days, maybe; as long as Georgia continues to have conniption fits. Yesterday there were whitecaps in the bay and on the water right in front of us. It's a bit blowy.
Smoke from Vancouver Island has really traveled and is pretty thick over the bay today. We are breathing it and it bothers the eyes a bit.
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...crossing Georgia Strait... 8-21-2023
Well, that went very smoothly and it was amazing the number of boats that left Pender Harbour shortly before us, and after us as well. Everyone was getting
across, while the getting was good. Pretty light wind all the way across with a bit of a chop hitting our quarter beam which made you work at the steering. Whiskey Gulf was NOT active. Repeat: Whiskey
Gulf was not active. Straight line across Georgia Straits. Lot of boats heading towards Nanaimo, and heading NE, passing us in the Straits. Seacoaster, with Tom and Jane, passed us at their normal
cruising speed and it turns out were heading for Mark Bay on the inside of Newcastle Island (right across from Nanaimo) as well. We arrived after they had set a hook and the wind was getting stiffer.
We headed over to the Newcastle Island dock to see if there was room enough for two boats, Seacoaster and us. On the SE end there was and we texted Seacoaster to let them know that we were tying up and
there was room for them as well. There was no one to catch our lines, and after getting fenders and lines ready we came in carefully, making use of the wind which was blowing us straight on the dock. Just
had to bring the boat in far enough that we were set to step off and tie up. All done. Tom, on Seacoaster, brought their boat in perfectly and tied up in front of us. He had to get passed us, before the
the wind pushed them onto the starboard side of us. We had fenders out, just in case, but no need. Great job, Skipper. It was a delight to spend the night with them and they made our trip that much more
enjoyable. Always good to travel with friends on the water.
Winds dropping to light and looking like we will be crossing around noon today.
Winds dropping to light and looking like we will be crossing around noon today.
Pages... Turning...
Each day is made of many pages
Discussion flowing, with some changes;
Emotions adjusting without rages,
Following wisdom from wise old sages.
Take your turn on different stages,
Before adjusting your colorful swages;
Look over the given choices, gauges,
And bring in the use of some ambages.
Circular and roundabout pages,
Navigates one, through long mileage;
Trading options through arbitrage,
Before one and all shorts out, disengages.
The end result becomes compages,
Unlike the prior discordant dark ages;
Once again, the core of love upstages,
Jumbled folios, looking for rampages!
by Rebecca Pratt
KEY:
swages - (personal baggage)
ambages - (winding, roundabout paths or ways)
compages - (structure of many parts united into a functioning whole)
Discussion flowing, with some changes;
Emotions adjusting without rages,
Following wisdom from wise old sages.
Take your turn on different stages,
Before adjusting your colorful swages;
Look over the given choices, gauges,
And bring in the use of some ambages.
Circular and roundabout pages,
Navigates one, through long mileage;
Trading options through arbitrage,
Before one and all shorts out, disengages.
The end result becomes compages,
Unlike the prior discordant dark ages;
Once again, the core of love upstages,
Jumbled folios, looking for rampages!
by Rebecca Pratt
KEY:
swages - (personal baggage)
ambages - (winding, roundabout paths or ways)
compages - (structure of many parts united into a functioning whole)
...on to Port Browning 8-22-23
We pulled away from the dock at Newcastle Island, at 8:00 sharp (after saying our goodbyes while still tied up) and on our way. Seacoaster was behind us, after helping us get off the dock first.
There must have been more than 7 boats having pulled anchor, or unhitched from buoys, traveling towards Dodd Narrows, in front of us. There were at least 5 behind us, including Seacoaster. As we
were heading out, glanced back over our right shoulder and a huge ferry was coming up on our starboard side fairly quickly. Slowed down to let it pass, dropping in behind it. Our friends sent a text
asking if we were the boat right behind the ferry. Yep. Guess they were trying to figure out which one of the 10+ boats we were!
Got down to Dodd Narrows and it was definitely a parade time. Boats were coming through Dodd Narrows, heading northbound still, even though waters had turned (and current was southbound) by the time we got there. 7+ boats had gone through, southbound, before we were close enough to prepare to go through. We happened to be the lead boat in the next batch of 7+ boats getting ready to line up and head south. We were just getting ready to go through when a female voice came on Ch 16 VHF radio stating, “ Securite, Securite, Securite, sailing vessel entering Dodd Narrows, northbound”. We waited, and waited... no boats coming through. Hmmmm. John got on the radio and said, “Securite, Securite, Securite, motor vessel approaching Dodd Narrows, southbound.“ The other voice came right back stating that there were 3 vessels already entering Dodd Narrows, northbound, please standby. John replied, "Standing by.“ We swung our boat in a hard circle to show boats behind us, including our friends, that we had to stop. The other boats behind Seacoaster were holding back and we ended up with all of our boats kind of lined up across the entrance of Dodd Narrows. A powerboat came out first, under top speed, with a heck of a wake and went right through the middle of us. Another boater came on the VHF radio and said, "A__h___, slow down, we are all have to standby here in your wake." The powerboat replied that he needed to speed up to create some distance between himself and the two sailboats behind him, in order to give them room to maneuver in the rapids. Someone else came on and said, "Please watch the language, this is a working channel." Everyone shut up.
Anyway, the 3rd boat finally came into view and we groaned. We weren't sure that the sailing vessel was going to make it all the way through the rapids. It was going really slow and the motor was working really hard pushing the sailboat against the rapids. Sure took it awhile to clear. A Spill Response boat had come up alongside of us and John spoke on the radio, "Go ahead Spill Response." Spill Response replied, "Thanks", and took off. We started up right behind him and the other boats fell in behind us. Someone cut in front of Seacoaster, so we just figured they would join the parade. They did, they were
the second boat behind us. Of course, everyone came through, no problem. Leaving the rapids, we went our separate directions, Seacoaster to maybe Wallace Island and us to Port Browning. Great safe anchorage. We were tootling along, listening to the chatter on the VHF, when "the voice" came on whining, "You guys have got to learn the Rules of the Road". There was an immediate reply, "What Road?" We cracked up.
A little later on, there was a Coast Guard guy who came on yammering about Whiskey Gulf, saying a whole bunch of things. After he went quiet, a male voice came on and said, "I didn't understand a word he just said!" Funnily enough, a couple more came on agreeing completely. Loved it. Wanted to do that yesterday when there was a long Coast Guard speech, none of which made any sense. We think it was the same guy. After a bit, the Coast Guard guy came on and he made his statement again, but it was definitely slower and a little clearer. THANK YOU!
Well, we are anchored in Port Browning 5' 41" later, at 1:45 pm. Did see a pod of orcas as we entered Navy Channel, right before entering Plumper Sound (love the name)! There were two whale watching boats circling around them. There was a powerboat running fast from the opposite direction and one of the whale watching boats went over towards them and flagged them down. We could see the flag waving away. The channel does become narrow and it makes sense.
Stiff breeze in our face the whole way but only a two foot chop. Not bad and definitely a good day boating.
Got down to Dodd Narrows and it was definitely a parade time. Boats were coming through Dodd Narrows, heading northbound still, even though waters had turned (and current was southbound) by the time we got there. 7+ boats had gone through, southbound, before we were close enough to prepare to go through. We happened to be the lead boat in the next batch of 7+ boats getting ready to line up and head south. We were just getting ready to go through when a female voice came on Ch 16 VHF radio stating, “ Securite, Securite, Securite, sailing vessel entering Dodd Narrows, northbound”. We waited, and waited... no boats coming through. Hmmmm. John got on the radio and said, “Securite, Securite, Securite, motor vessel approaching Dodd Narrows, southbound.“ The other voice came right back stating that there were 3 vessels already entering Dodd Narrows, northbound, please standby. John replied, "Standing by.“ We swung our boat in a hard circle to show boats behind us, including our friends, that we had to stop. The other boats behind Seacoaster were holding back and we ended up with all of our boats kind of lined up across the entrance of Dodd Narrows. A powerboat came out first, under top speed, with a heck of a wake and went right through the middle of us. Another boater came on the VHF radio and said, "A__h___, slow down, we are all have to standby here in your wake." The powerboat replied that he needed to speed up to create some distance between himself and the two sailboats behind him, in order to give them room to maneuver in the rapids. Someone else came on and said, "Please watch the language, this is a working channel." Everyone shut up.
Anyway, the 3rd boat finally came into view and we groaned. We weren't sure that the sailing vessel was going to make it all the way through the rapids. It was going really slow and the motor was working really hard pushing the sailboat against the rapids. Sure took it awhile to clear. A Spill Response boat had come up alongside of us and John spoke on the radio, "Go ahead Spill Response." Spill Response replied, "Thanks", and took off. We started up right behind him and the other boats fell in behind us. Someone cut in front of Seacoaster, so we just figured they would join the parade. They did, they were
the second boat behind us. Of course, everyone came through, no problem. Leaving the rapids, we went our separate directions, Seacoaster to maybe Wallace Island and us to Port Browning. Great safe anchorage. We were tootling along, listening to the chatter on the VHF, when "the voice" came on whining, "You guys have got to learn the Rules of the Road". There was an immediate reply, "What Road?" We cracked up.
A little later on, there was a Coast Guard guy who came on yammering about Whiskey Gulf, saying a whole bunch of things. After he went quiet, a male voice came on and said, "I didn't understand a word he just said!" Funnily enough, a couple more came on agreeing completely. Loved it. Wanted to do that yesterday when there was a long Coast Guard speech, none of which made any sense. We think it was the same guy. After a bit, the Coast Guard guy came on and he made his statement again, but it was definitely slower and a little clearer. THANK YOU!
Well, we are anchored in Port Browning 5' 41" later, at 1:45 pm. Did see a pod of orcas as we entered Navy Channel, right before entering Plumper Sound (love the name)! There were two whale watching boats circling around them. There was a powerboat running fast from the opposite direction and one of the whale watching boats went over towards them and flagged them down. We could see the flag waving away. The channel does become narrow and it makes sense.
Stiff breeze in our face the whole way but only a two foot chop. Not bad and definitely a good day boating.
Where to next? La Conner, WA 8-23-23
3 months since we left the Port of Edmonds. Can't believe we have been gone that long?
We got up early and left Port Browning about 6:30 am, planning on anchoring in Blind Bay on Shaw Island in the San Juan Islands. After we crossed the US/Canadian border and checked in via CBP Roam, the conditions were perfect for traveling. So we headed for LaConner instead. No wind, flat water, about 5 1/2 hours later we found an open spot on F Dock. First order of business: chicken strips and potato salad from the Pioneer Market. Hosed the boat down and relaxed for the afternoon. It rained Tuesday evening in Port Browning. Cloudy this evening here. Blueberry scones in the morning.
Foggy to the right
Smoky to the left
Middle of the bight
No sun, water bereft
Covering is hazy
Mix of fog and smoke
The winds became lazy
And thought it was a joke!
by Rebecca Pratt
Was overcast from smoke all day, with a strong breeze coming up in the afternoon. Helps blow away all of the otter, um, stuff, that is really stinking up when you get a whiff. That's a new one for this dock.
8-24-23: Ahhhh blueberry lemon scones from The Scone Lady in La Conner are the best ever. Coffee and scones this morning, chicken strips and potato salad for lunch and then bar-b-qued steaks for dinner. Nice relaxing day. Tomorrow? Last leg to home port after fueling up at 8:00 in the morning. ETA: roughly 2 pm. Predict Winds app shows less than 5 mph winds from here to Edmonds, WA. That is good.
We got up early and left Port Browning about 6:30 am, planning on anchoring in Blind Bay on Shaw Island in the San Juan Islands. After we crossed the US/Canadian border and checked in via CBP Roam, the conditions were perfect for traveling. So we headed for LaConner instead. No wind, flat water, about 5 1/2 hours later we found an open spot on F Dock. First order of business: chicken strips and potato salad from the Pioneer Market. Hosed the boat down and relaxed for the afternoon. It rained Tuesday evening in Port Browning. Cloudy this evening here. Blueberry scones in the morning.
Today
Foggy to the right
Smoky to the left
Middle of the bight
No sun, water bereft
Covering is hazy
Mix of fog and smoke
The winds became lazy
And thought it was a joke!
by Rebecca Pratt
Was overcast from smoke all day, with a strong breeze coming up in the afternoon. Helps blow away all of the otter, um, stuff, that is really stinking up when you get a whiff. That's a new one for this dock.
8-24-23: Ahhhh blueberry lemon scones from The Scone Lady in La Conner are the best ever. Coffee and scones this morning, chicken strips and potato salad for lunch and then bar-b-qued steaks for dinner. Nice relaxing day. Tomorrow? Last leg to home port after fueling up at 8:00 in the morning. ETA: roughly 2 pm. Predict Winds app shows less than 5 mph winds from here to Edmonds, WA. That is good.
Boat’s Belly time
Tummy scrub and wash down
Oh what a delightful feeling
Scum and grub, I am brown
Off it comes, all squealing
Pressure wash the growing town
Of frowsy algae freeloaders
Until my belly’s free of clowns
With their salty brine and odors
Wriggling now free and clear
Of barnacles and mussels
Through the water I can steer
Much greater speeds I will hustle.
by Rebecca Pratt
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38' 1988 Bayliner Motoryacht
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32' 1988 Bayliner Motoryacht
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2556 1988 Bayliner Ciera
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24' 1972 Bayliner Saratoga
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Crew
of
Rebecca Ann
